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03.06.2003: The last message from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports: Alexander Abramov reports: 2 June. Mr. Ang-Tzering the President of the Climbing Federation of Nepal presented our climbers memorable medals at the ceremonial welcome. It rained in Kathmandu that means the season of monsoon has begun. All the expeditions are leaving and we are doing the same. The Adventure Team of Alpindustria arrives at Sheremetyevo 2, at 8.40 in the morning; the flight is 536K Delhi - Moscow. Look forward to the meeting! It is the last message,Bye. Expedition sponsors: "BASK" company and "KANT" sports club.

28.05.2003: Members of Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition ascended to the summit Alexander Abramov reports: 29 may. Today is 50 years from the first ascension to the summit of Everest. All the team gathered in the kitchen in the morning. Suddenly at 9.40 Sergey Larin reported very sprightly: "I am standing at the summit of Everest and setting the flag of our country". Our exertion was developed into general rejoicing. Our team celebrated the anniversary triumphal. The field day finished for us symbolically. Two months of hard and exhausting work have brought us victory. We are descending to the BC, where we are going to wait for Sergey Larin. After that all expedition is going to Katmandu. In Katmandu 30 best Russian climbers will meet us. This meeting will be wonderful. The team is full of enthusiasm and further plans of new summits.It is the end of the message, Bye. 28 May. The team of Alpindustria is trying to storm the summit of Everest again. Sergey Larin is making desperate attempt of ascension. He is at 8300m now, Sergey reported about the attempt to reach the summit at night today. There are no climbers except him on the mountain. The wind is blowing dangerously. Sergey is an experienced climber and if the weather does not change he will not jeopardize his life. About 36 yaks have been gone to the ABC already. Elagin and Litinskiy descended to the ABC. We wish Sergey Larin good luck! It is the end of the message,Bye. 27 May. The banner of Alpindustria was set on the summit of Everest. Elagin and Gudjabidze ascended to the summit. This success pertains to all the members of our expedition. Everest has proved us one more time how it is difficult and severe. Such bad weather has not been for many years. Gudjabidze descended to the ABC. It is the end of the message, Bye" Expedition sponsors: "BASK" company and "KANT" sports club.

27.05.2003: Alexander Abramov reports: "North, squally wind ruins all our hopes to subdue Everest" Alexander Abramov   Alexander Abramov reports: 26 May. North, squally wind ruins all our hopes to subdue Everest. We are waiting for the news from the camp at 8300m. The tents are jumping in the ABC and we are afraid the tents can be blown away. At 12 o'clock was the connection with Sergeev. He reported the wind at 7700m was very cold and strong. It was impossible to climb up so he made the decision to descend. Sergey Larin was ascending from the North Col to the camp at 7500m. Sergeev met Larin and gave him portable radio transmitter because Larin had lost his. At 18.00 Larin was at 7700m and decided to spend the night there in the tent of Saint Petersburg expedition. The expedition of Saint Petersburg had left Everest already. At 22.00 the leader of Italian expedition visited Larin and informed he had seen the Russian climbers at 8300 and they were waiting for the good weather. We have been informed that Lakpa Gelu Sherpa held the new record yesterday. It had taken him only ten hours and forty minutes on the southward to get from the BC (5300m) to the summit. It is the end of the message, Bye" 25 May. The weather has not become well, the wind is strong and none of expeditions are working there. Sherps are carrying all the things down. Tinkling of bells is heard all over there are a lot of yaks. The connection was at 10 o'clock in the morning. Gudjabidze, Elagin and Litinskiy ascended from 7500m to 7900m and they are ready to climb at 8300m tomorrow. I advised them to climb 8300m today and ascend the summit tomorrow. The Day of Independence of Georgia will be tomorrow and Bidzina dreamed to ascend the summit on this important day for him. The connection was at 12 o'clock. Sergeev and sherp ascended from 7000m to 7900m and they were valid to climb at 7900m but there were three persons already at 7900m. Sergeev is 67 years old and if he ascends the summit Sergeev will become the oldest person in the history of Everest. Sergey Larin gathered his rucksack and went to the North Col and wanted to ascend the summit alone. Only our expedition "Alpindustria" is working on the mountain. Other expeditions refused to ascend the summit and went away. Gudjabidze reported that they went to the camp at 8300m in the dark and they were trying to find the tent and oxygen cylinders. I explained them there to find all the necessary things. They are ascending to the summit at night today. God be with you! Abramov and Pushkarev are going to try the ascension to the summit tomorrow. We are planning, 26, May - 7500m, 27,May - 8300m, and if the weather is fine the ascension to the summit will be on the 28th of May. It is possible that will be problems with the messages. We ask you not to worry and hope for the best. It is the end of the message, Bye" 24 May. Our team (Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov) worked rapidly and operated such unbelievable work content that many other climbers were surprised. 21 May. Our two sherps have become ill. The weather is rather bad. We have installed the camp at 7900m. We ascended from 7500m to 7900m with oxygen cylinders, found the area for our camp and installed the camp. It is 17.00; because of the shortage of water we have sore throat and the oxygen dry it. According to the forecast the weather today at night and tomorrow will be fine. We made the decision to go further and install the camp at 8300m. It needs usually one day. We have four hours and a half before the darkness. We started at 17.15 and began to use three liters oxygen in a minute. It was too difficult to go and our team ascended the camp at 8300m in the dark. This mountainside has the rake of 25degree. All suitable area for the tents was occupied. We were gasping for a drink, but there was no shelter to boil the water and find protection from the shrill wind. We had to rake the frozen stones with the help of our hands. Suddenly the oxygen cylinder passed us very closely. At about 100 climbers gathered there. We tried to make the stone platform for the tents at about one hour and a half. It was - 30C of frost. It was 1 o'clock at night when we fell into the tent. The sleeping begs were not taken we hoped to spend night burning gas-jets and melting water. But all the members fell asleep in the tent. We got up at 3 o'clock, melted the water about 200gr per man and were ready at 5 o'clock in the morning to ascend the summit. The lights of climbers were seen throughout the rout. The dawn caught us at the height of 8500m. Our team climbed the crest at 8600m. The rout was traced with ropes and ready to ascension. The first barrier was the wall and 20 climbers on it we had to wait for our turn at about one hour. Suddenly the weather changed, snow began to fall down and the strong wind became stronger. We came up to the second step at 8700m there were 30 climbers ascending very slowly. The summit was not seen because of the snow. I remembered the ascension in 1996 only 11 persons were able to stay there because of the weather worsening. I am responsible for the people it was a pity but I had to turn my team back. We started to climb down and some other expeditions ascended down with us. The probability of death and ascension were equal this day. All the members of our team got huge experience this day in spite of slight chilblain. We reached the height of 8700m. 24 May. Moskalev, Soipher, Litinskiy, Elagin and Gudjabize are expecting the good weather. Larin and Pashkov are in the ABC. It is the end of the message, Bye"

20.05.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow Alexander Abramov reports: 20 May. According to the weather forecast the strong wind blows from the morning. The crowd of people is ascending slowly for five, six steps in a minute it is too difficult to breath in. The passage to 7500m is complicated and long enough. It is cold and strong wind is blowing. We have met our sherps, they could not install the camp at 8300m again. So we have to ask the other expeditions for the tents at 8300m. Sherps from the other expeditions have been carrying oxygen cylinders and tracing ropes all week. The workmanship of our sherps is poor. Three persons from Japan, three sherps and one Englishman have ascended to the summit today. Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzraev and Kaimachnikov are at 7500m now. Moskalev, Soipher, Elagin and Gudjabidze have gone from the ABC to the North Col. They are following us. 19 May. Abramov, Pushkarev, Tzarev and Kaimachnikov went from the ABC at about 12 o'clock. It took them three hours and a half to get to the North Col. The weather is perfect, the wind is not strong but with gusts. At about 100 people have ascended to the North Col. We are planning the ascension to the summit on the 22nd of May. We feel good and have keen appetite. The great passage is planned tomorrow. It is the end of the message,Bye. 18 May. There was strong wind yesterday. The sherps refuse flatly to ascend. We have decided to ascend on the 22nd of May. We are planning, 20, May - 7500m, 21, May - 8300m and 22, May - the summit. The sherps are installing 8300m. The whole expedition was gathered together in the evening. There was the meeting in the ABC and we made the decision that Abramov, Tzarev, Pushkarev and Kaimachnikov would ascend the first. Moskalev, Soipher and Latinskiy would follow, 20, May - the North Col, 21, May - 7500m, 22, May - 7900m, 23, May - 8300m, 24, May - the summit. Larin, Pashkov, Elagin, Sergeev would ascend, 22, May - the North Col, 23, May - 7500m, 24, May - 7900m, 25, May - 8300m, 26, May - the summit. The period of expectation will be finished tomorrow. 17, May. Some members from the expedition of Baltic States came to our camp in the morning. We have been playing cards all day and waiting for the better weather. Igor Tzarev wanted to dry his sleeping bag and it was flown away towards the neighbor camp. Most of the expeditions are planning the ascension on the 22nd of May. Yura Soipher and Dima Moskalev came to the ABC in the evening. It is snowing hardly in the ABC. We were invited to celebrate the birthday in the expedition from Saint Petersburg. There were a lot of friendly speeches and the self-made cake. It was an agreement that we would communicate with them during ascension using portable radio transmitter. The wind has dropped and the snow has begun. Our prospects of climbing are perfect. 16, May. Have you ever seen the film "Groundhog Day"? I get up and notice that every day is the same. We have been at the height of 6500m for nine days already. We are looking forward to the good weather. The height is very injurious for health, energy and brain especially. The expeditions postpone the time of ascension. The problem is that above 8300m there are no railing ropes. Sherps are not able to ascend because of the wind. We have known about the deaths of the climbers in CHO-OIU. Misha Latinskiy went to the ABC at 6 o'clock; the full moon helped him to find the way. We are planning to go out tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. 15, May. The weather is extraordinary this year. Sherps told that such strong wind had been only one day last year. It is strange the sky is absolutely clean and it is impossible to ascend. The west wind is blowing now and soon will be southwest this means monsoon. There were years when nobody was able to ascend the summit. Perhaps the anniversary year is preparing us such gift. The weather becomes warmer. The tent is not frozen inside. The sherps are working; they have carried 20 oxygen cylinders at 7500m and 8300m. We are trying to install the tent today at 8300m. The wind is going to drop for two or three days. Abramov, Pushkarev and Tzarev are not going to BC now; they are staying in the ABC to ascend on the 16th of May. We are planning: 17, May - 7500m, 18, May - 7900m, 19, May - 8300m, 20 or 21, May - the summit. According to the new weather forecast from the 16th to the 21st of May the snowfalls are expected. Follow the news. It is the end of the message, Bye. Expedition sponsors: "BASK" company and "KANT" sports club.

15.05.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow Alexander Abramov reports: 14 May. Slava Pashkov is depressed: "The hell with your mountains! I have got a lot of impression". Slava has never devoted to mountain climbing before. It is like experiment for him and us. He paid for the guider and porter. During the expedition Slava was able to have night in the camp 2. If Slava ascends to the summit it will cause the sensation in the mountaineering. Without doubt he has a good chance to do it. Tzarev, Pushkarev and three sherps are in the ABC now. They have not been a success to install the camp at 8300m because of the strong wind. Our plans are spoiled all the time. At the height of 7500m Elagin, Gudjabidze and Kaimachnikov installed the tent at about one hour and a half yesterday. They did not sleep and held the tent with the help of their bodies all night. The camp at 7500m was called "The dead town" because there was nobody except them. Nobody has gone to the top today. The peak is ice-coated and the ropes have not been changed for a long time. Probably the expedition from China will be able to trace the ropes. I should lead the first group of climbers to the summit. In spite of the weather all the expeditions are planning the ascension on the 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th of May. The tents are torn in the ABC and there is the full moon in the sky. It is the end of the message, Bye 13, May. Already as a month we have gone with yaks to ABC. I suppose you are tired of reading about the adventures of our walking between the BC and the camp at 7000m. Please be tolerant it is a classical expedition to Everest. None of the other expeditions have ascended above 7700m. This fact can constitute justification to us. According to the weather forecast the good weather is expected after the 22nd of May. The strong wind is ruining our plans. We have tickets to Moscow on the 2nd of June. In order to have time to return we should go down with yaks from the ABC to the BC on the 26th of May. It seems to us this will be unreal. Most members of our expedition are ready to postpone the date of the departure. Alecsandr Sergeev was not able to ascend from 7000m to 7500m because of the strong wind and he had to return to the BC. The leaders of all expeditions will gather at 17.00. The expedition of China offers to combine efforts to trace the ropes of railings above 8300m. Some expeditions provide 16 sherps. It is snowing now and the weather has become warmer. It is the end of the message,Bye. 12 May. We are informed about weather forecast every day and they come true. The wind was strong on the North Col 20m/sec. We did not manage to ascend at 7500m. We were able only to climb 100m up and down with frozen noses. Of course we did not climb for naught our expedition was photographed with the banner "Adventure Team of Alpindustria" and with the banners of our sponsors "BASK" and "KANT" against a background of Everest. We fixed the tents and went to the ABC it took us one hour and a half to get to the camp. Our process of acclimatization has finished. We are waiting for better weather. Through hearsay the expedition from China is planning the ascension at the 17th of May. According to the weather forecast the strong wind will be from 12 to 19 May, but many other expeditions are going to climb too. It has been an agreement to take an attempt of the ascension at the 17th or 18th May. Elagin, Gudjabidse, Sergeev, Kaimachnikov have gone to the Col to have night there. The strong wind is blowing in ABC and we are afraid that our tents will be blown away. It is the end of the message, Bye. 11, May. Moskalev, Latinskiy, Soipher went to the camp at 7500 to have night there, but strong wind did not let them to reach the camp 2. Abramov, Larin, Pashkov gone to the top, it took them three hours and a half to get to the North Col. People from Chine were making film about the expeditions ascending to the summit of Everest. When we came to the North Col sherps informed us about our sleeping bag in the crack. The crack was at about 15m deep. We took the rope, Larin insured and I abseiled down. I hardly pulled out the sleeping bag. The second sleeping bag was found not far from the first, the third was given us by the Estonian expedition. Soon the fourth sleeping bag was found by sherp. So things are sorting themselves. It is the end of the message, Bye. 10, May. Have you ever assessed damages after fire, flood or tsunami and gathered rest things important for life. We have been busy with this for two days. Our expedition has been trying to install the camp at 7900m from the 26th of April. None of the expeditions install the camp above 7500m. According to the weather forecast the wind is strong today at the top and it is not dropping till Wednesday. We hope everything will be OK. Now nine members of our expedition are in the ABC and three on the North Col. It is the end of the message, Bye. 9 May. At the height of 6000m the temperature is at about -15C, -16C, the wind is blowing. We have some problems in the BC of organization the yaks with the equipment to the top camps. I am staying in contact with sherps, they have not found out the tents. We have now four tents, five sleeping bags and it is impossible to understand how many burners and pans we have. Larin, Pashkov and Abromov are going to the top tomorrow. It is the end of the message, Bye.

08.05.2003: Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition: news Alexander Abramov reports: "6,May. We connected with Dima Moskalev at 10 o'clock in the morning. He reported that all night they were strengthening the kitchen tent and the storm did not stop. It was an agreement to communicate with Dima at 4 o'clock once more. There is no doubt that in the village it is warmer and more air for breathing. None of the expeditions is going to the top. So it is quite reasonable to stay in the village and gather strength. It takes at about half an hour to get to the BC from the village. We are not so exhausted by the weather and stone walls protect us from the wind. Dima informed us that wind was strong and gusty; two of our tents had been damaged badly. Fortunately our camp is situated under moraine it protects us from the wind. According to the weather forecast the wind will abate tomorrow. We decided if the weather became good they would send car for from the BC. We have a notebook computer with us and have already watched some films. It is the end of the message, Bye" "5,May. In the morning the jeep from the BC came and took Slava Pashkov, Sergey Larin and Dima Moskalev, they are our scouts. In the afternoon dust was rushing level with clouds and strong wind was blowing. It was at the height of 4100m. According to the information the kitchen tent had been torn and many tents in other camps had been crashed too. The sherps who had been in the ABC informed us that all the tents in the top camps had been blown. We do not want to believe in these facts; we have tents at 7500m and all tents at 7000m there are twelve sleeping bags and many other necessary equipment. We will not be able to ascend to the summit without the equipment. Thank God, we did not pulled the oxygen cylinders. It is said that on the South Col at 8000m all the tents were blown down. Of course the storms in this place are evident. In 1997 early in May my tent was blown down with all equipment, oxygen cylinders, camera-recorder and est. Now one problem of our returning to the BC should be solved. According to the weather forecast tomorrow will be the last day of the foul weather. We will be waiting news about the weather from Dima Moscalev. His message will help us to make a decision. It is the end of the message, Bye" "2,May. Take counsel with your pillow; sleep on it! We were able to discuss and solve all the problems with sherps in the morning. We promised them to add some tips and they signed the agreement. They will go working to ABC tomorrow. There are many talks about new illness. The border China and Nepal has been closed. We do not know exactly how to return home. According to the weather forecast a storm is expected at a height of 7000 and 8000m. We decided to have a rest in a village for three days at a height of 4000m, so we are going to move there tomorrow. I suppose we need to wash, sleep in warm place and eat fresh meat. During the whole month we are eating dried meat of yaks, not washing, not shaving and leading natural way of living. Bye" "1,May. The situation is difficult. The sherps went down. Our activity is stopped. I communicated with the cook Passanga. He said that the problem was evident sherps wanted to raise their bonuses. I knew from another expeditions that our bonuses were quite normal and some expeditions paid less than we did. I decided not to climb 7900m for acclimatization. We moved down to the BC where our sherps were. Pashkov, Larin, Kaimanchikov, Gudjabidze helped to organize the negotiations with the sherps. At first the sherps were offended and asserted that they were not the yaks and the matter of their strike were not bonuses, after that they blamed the leader. There were the moments when we wanted to dismiss all of them but we had to continue the expedition. Some days were lost because of their strike. Bye." "30,April. I like Sherpas and Nepal very much. But very likely I will become racist soon. We were planning the third ascent to the North Col. I gave sherps oxygen cylinders, 18kg (five oxygen cylinders) per man. It was an agreement that they should carry the load of 20kg to the North Col but suddenly sherps began to shake their heads. They did not want to carry 18kg per man only 11kg(three oxygen cylinders). It exasperated not only me but also another members of our expeditions. It was the matter of principle either the sherps would work or go back to Katmandu. Probably I indulged them paying bonuses every week. Usually bonuses are paid at the end of the expedition. I would like to report the names of "bad" sherps: Dzankby, Torgeeken and Tshuldim. If you do not want to have problems during your expedition never take these sherps. During the whole month sherps worked only five days at 7000m and asserted that the given work was beyond their strength. As a result they left the expedition and went back to Katmandu. We connected with the firm Asian Trekking and they promised to provide us with following information next day: either to return money at about 3000$ per sherp or send another. As to the defaulters the firm promised to leave them without salary. And now without sherps we decided to install the camp 7900m by own strength. Bye." April 29. It has been snowing all night through - justifying weather forecasts. This morning at 10 a.m. we were informed over the radio that Sergey Larin and Slava Pashkov had left for Camp 7500 to spend a night there. Three more members of our expedition - Moskalev, Soifer, Litinsky - are going for an acclimatization hike to 7500 today as well. It started snowing even more heavily. We are sitting in the dining-tent playing preference for oxygen bottles. Our kitchen boy came with hot water. We've been playing for 6 hours and it is still snowing. Last time we haven't fulfilled our plan: we haven't set Camp 7900m. Now we have a new plan: tomorrow Abramov, Gudzhabidze, and Pushkarev are going together with Sherpas to install Camp 7900m. It will take about three days. The snow is still falling, I am afraid that the pitches between 7000m and 7500m can be avalanche-prone. Today Vasya Elagin arrived in ABC. He said that the group of Yuriy Koshelenko arrived in BC. The snow is still falling. It looks like Christmas Eve. I nearly failed to find my tent in the dark. So tomorrow we'll make an attempt. Bye "April 28. 8:00 a.m. Radio conversation North Col (7000) - Camp II(7500). Abramov - Gudzhabidze. Abramov: "Good morning. How's the team? What are your plans?" Gudzhabidze: "The weather at 7500 is crap. We can't even peep out of the tent." Abramov: "Next connection is at 9:00 a.m." Meanwhile negotiations with altitude sherpas are going in full swing. They are saying that all sherpas are heading down, the forecast for the three nearest days is bad. It's snowing heavily, the wind is raging. 9:00 a.m. Radio conversation North Col (7000) - Camp II(7500). Abramov - Gudzhabidze. Abramov: "The weather is bad. All sherpas are going down. They refuse point black to go and set Camp III" Gudzhabidze: "Then we are going down too." There is a snowstorm above the Col. Several climbers made an attempt to get to 7500m. We have no further information about them. So, "Alpindustria Adventure Team" is among the first expeditions to have set Camp II at 7500m. That is a good result. Soifer, Moskalev and Litinskiy will spend this night on the Col. By 12:00 they were already in Camp I. Everyone is OK" “April 25. I am lying in a cold tent writing my diary. The night was very cold, the gas lamp didn’t warm two-person BASK tent at all. I was having nightmares about expedition matters. I had some problems with Sherpas. It all started on April 19. Leaving ABC for BC I told Sherpas to come down to BC with us. Only one of them obeyed. The rest neglected leader’s (my) words. I came to ABC on April 24, and decided to settle the situation, explain to them who is the leader and threaten to leave them partially without bonuses. The point is that staying alone in ABC altitude Sherpas start working for other expeditions (for money, of course). And when the time comes to work for their own expedition, they fall ill. As a result of our conversation, Sherpas are addressing me now “leader” or “Mr. Alex”. Tomorrow they are going to work on the North Col and higher. You won’t believe it, but Mikhail Litinsky has returned. He had some rest in Old Tingry and felt better. So this morning Moskalev, Soifer and Litinski took off from BC.” Later: Today 4 sportsmen: Kaimachnokov, Gugzhabidze, Tsarev, Pushkarev and three altitude Sherpas took off for the North Col. They will spend a night there, and tomorrow all seven will proceed further and pitch a tent at 7500 with all the necessary supplies: four sleeping bags, food, gas, foam pads. The Sherpas will descend to 7000m. The same day the other party of four: Abramov, Larin, Pashkov and Sergeev – will climb to the North Col. The ultimate task of this push: to set Camp 7900m by April 30, and spend a night there. The first party of four started today at 11 a.m. for the Col. The rest engaged themselves in struggling with our expedition oxygen bottles. We put all 48 bottles on the moraine and supplied each bottle with the sticks of our main sponsors – BASK and KANT – and our media sponsors – “Vertikalniy Mir” and “Mountain.RU”. Here on the mountain all expeditions have the same oxygen bottles – orange, of Russian company “Poisk”. They can be easily stolen, and oxygen is not cheap at all. In the afternoon the weather abruptly changed to worse. Now it’s –15C in ABC with heavy snowfall and piercing wind. The toilet tent was taken away by a gust with all its contents. The guys are already drinking tea on the Col and asking over the radio about weather forecast for tomorrow. We’ll try to find it out for them.

25.04.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition under the leadership of A.Abramov Alexander Abramov reports : April 24. Today we made a heroic climb from BC to ABC. It is about 1300m of vertical gain and 20km overall. As it was expected, our two tents in Middle Camp were searched through, but as there they were empty, all the quick-draws had been stolen. Sergei Kaimachnikov was the first to arrive at ABC, he was followed by Igor Tsarev. Abramov was wise enough to go in the middle. The rest came soon after. A lot of short steep slopes on the way to ABC can drive one crazy. You think that after that hill you'll see a camp - but, oops, there is another stone-strewn field. In ABC we met Vasya Elagin. He climbed to the North Col yesterday and tomorrow is going down to BC. The weather according to forecasts we receive from www.mounteverest.net will stay bad till May 4. Very strong wind is tearing the tents. The empty tents fly into the air. But we are grateful to www.mounteverest.net for the weather forecasts. We plan to climb to 7000m first, then to 7500m and, if we are lucky, to pitch a camp at 7900m and spend a night there. But under such weather conditions we don't stand big chances. Bye to everybody. April 23. Hurray! Our oxygen – 48 bottles - has been delivered. Today is the last day of rest. It was warm and sunny and Slava Pashkov took a sauna before going again to ABC. By the way, Slava is the secret of our expedition. About a month before expedition a guy called and said he’d like to join our Alpindustria Adventure Team to climb Everest. He was not a climber, but a keen hunter. My first reaction was to reject. For the last three months we had about 20 similar offers. But Sergei Zon-Zam (the head of Alpindustria) vouched for him. We had a meeting with Slava, talked for about 3 hours. Why not try? We agreed, that Slava would pay for himself, for a personal guide (Larin) and for a personal Sherpa. We made a deal. I asked him why didn’t he want to start with easier summits. He said what if he didn’t like mountaineering then and would never want to climb Everest after that. Anda it is Everest that is his dream. Pashkov bought all personal gear. I managed to talk Slava into going to the Caucasus, where they climbed Elbrus in harsh February weather together with Sergei Larin. It was a good test. Slava didn’t lose his enthusiasm and went to Everest with us. He has almost become the soul of the expedition. He is very eagerly listening to the stories of experienced climbers. He never complains. He has already been to 7050m and spent a night there. Are there too many climbers who have spent a night over 7000? If in the beginning Slava’s chances of getting to the summit were 1:20, now they may be 1:2. Let’s follow his progress. Dima Moskalev and Sasha Sergeev haven’t returned from Zhangmu till night. I think, they met there Kozlov’s expedition. So most probably they will arrive tomorrow. And we – 8 of us – will take off to ABC tomorrow at 9 a.m. Vasya Elagin is waiting for us there. Good-bye. April, 22. Early in the morning Chinese 4-wheeled car came and took Misha Litinskiy to Nepal. But this night Mikhail will spend near Chinese-Nepal border in Zhangmu. The rest members of our expedition decided to arrange sauna. Under the leadership of our doctor Sergei Larin we built a sauna-tent. But all of a sudden it started snowing, then the sun came out, then snowing again - and it repeated about 40 times. So only three of us -Larin, Kaimachnikov and Gudzhabidze - managed to wash themselves. The rest of us preferred to wait till it gets warmer and stay dirty. You know, up to 2 cm - is not yet dirt, and more than 2cm will peel off. Tibetan people don't wash and comb themselves at all. To crown it all, because of temperature drops the moraine where our tents are is collapsing, the stones fall each time closer to BC. And eagles drop stones time from time. So we'll have to move our sauna tent. This washing at 5100m is one big problem. Our rest time is coming to an end. On April 24 we are planning to head to ABC, then Camp I (7000m), Camp II (7500m), and may be Camp III (7900m), and after that get down. We hope to be through with all this by May 1. This done, the success of our expedition will be almost ensured. The only problem is that our oxygen bottles haven't arrived yet, they promise to bring them tomorrow - April 23. We'll see. We were informed that Viktor Kozlov had arrived in Katmandu and gradually moving in our direction. His expedition is a reconnaissance to the Everest North Face. That's all for now. Good-bye.

22.04.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov Alexander Abramov reports from ABC, Everest North Side: April, 21. Looks like it’s better to climb high in the mountains then to sit in BC – there are more problems in BC. As a result of high altitude and pressure, Misha Litinsky has got an eye hemorrhage. He is partially blind now. We decided to send him to Moscow. But there is another problem: Misha lost his passport. Now he is sitting in BC, seeing next to nothing and can’t leave. The whole day we’ve been making calls to Russian Embassy in Nepal, to insurance company, to Asian Trekking, having negotiations with liaison officer (he hasn’t reduced the price for the car – not by a cent). The result is: tomorrow Misha goes together with Dima Moskalev to Zhangmu, there the Chinese promise to help Misha sneak to the neutral territory, and our friends from the Russian Embassy will be waiting for him on the Friendship bridge between China and Nepal. They will issue a certificate for Misha, and with that document he will get to Delhi and then to Moscow. But this will be tomorrow, and today we had a meeting with Estonians, drank Chinese beer with Estonian dry fish. In the morning the weather was raging: terrible storm in BC, it almost blew the tents away. But it calmed down in the evening. Everest became visible, all covered with snow. Asian Trekking promised to fetch oxygen only by April, 23. So will have to rest till then. Good-bye. April, 20. This night witnessed 10cm of fresh snow. Today is Palm Sunday. May be that's why Chinese Central Television visited our BC at 12:00. They were trying to find out whether we knew anything at all about the Everest jubilee. And one of them was trying to prompt us from behind their cameras showing figure 50 to us. We failed to understand their prompts, as figure 50 meant nothing at all to us, so they went to another expedition camp. Today we made an attempt to send Moskalyov, Soifer and Litinsky to Zhangmu for treatment. But the Chinese asked $1050 for this 350km drive to Zhangmu. So we decided to wait till tomorrow. Today there was spread a rumor over BC that two Russians had fallen into crevasse. There was a state of alarm in our camp as Larin and Pashkov were still high on the mountain. But in the evening they both returned safe and sound after spending a night at 7000m. And there really was a climber who had fallen into crevasse 6 meters deep - it was a member from Estonian expedition. But he managed to get down on his own. So everything is OK. It is very windy outside, it isn't snowing, but it's cold. The other members of our team may also fall ill soon. Good-bye. April, 19. 10 a.m. No one feels like waking up. That’s a dangerous symptom – we should immediately go down. At 10 a.m. I have radio session with Larin – they are both feeling OK after the night at 7000m. They have already had tea and a going to start descending to 6400. The six of us go down. On the way to BC we meet Elagin. He had been struggling with his quinsy for 3 days, and now he is in good health and quite ready to do something heroic. He is going to ABC and then to the North Col. Moskalev, Soifer and Litinsky stayed in BC. It seems that they would have to descend to Zhangmu together with Tsarev – all of them are suffering from altitude cough. It’s very common at altitude, one gets over it as soon as he gets down. The weather is changing to worse. Cirri clouds keep passing over Everest summit all day long. It’s night already. We are in BC. It’s windy. It took us 5 to 8 hours to get from ABC to BC (for different people). I was told that while we were away, our kitchen-boy organized “Tibetian Party”: expedition beer was given away on a grand scale. I’ll have to talk to him tomorrow. And another thing: I’ll have to talk with liaison officer and send 4 people to Zhangmu for three days to take some treatment. Tsarev is coughing again. That’s all for now. Good-bye. April, 18. The night was a real nightmare. There came moans and growling from both tents. But that’s normal for sleeping over 7000m. I know, that the next one will be even worse. For some people it was the first night at 7000m. Sergeev and Kaimachnikov later said they thought it would be even more terrible. So it was alright. The wind wasn’t strong, but it was extremely cold. Though “BASK” sleeping bags and “Salewa” tents rose to the occasion. We didn’t feel like eating in the morning, so having quickly packed the things we rushed down the fixed ropes to 6600m. Having reached ABC our first intentions were to rush further down to BC - but that is another 6 hours. So we stayed in ABC. Actually, the fact that we have set Camp 1 at 7000m is a success of or Alpindustria Adventure Team. Besides our team is one of the first to have done it this season. The others were congratulating us on descend. On the way down we met Larin and Pashkov – they were climbing to Camp 1 to spend a night there. We have two mysterious people in our team: Sergeev and Pashkov. As for Alexander Sergeev – you already know his secret – he is almost 67, fit as a fiddle and can possibly become the oldest person to climb Everest. As for Vyacheslav Pashkov, his secret is of completely different kind. May be later I will reveal his secret, and I believe it would come as some sort of revelation. Good luck and good-bye.

18.04.2003: Alexander Abramov reports from the North Col of Everest April, 17. I had very heated debates with the Sherpas, trying to bring home to them that if they are paid they should work. But we managed to come to terms. They have carried the loads up - and that is the most important thing. The weather on the Col is superb. There is almost no wind. We pitched two " Salewa" tents for 6 people. Elagin has got quinsy, so he descended to Shigatse for cure. Soifer and Moscalev are working on their own schedule: yesterday they descended from ABC to BC. Today Mikhail Litinsky joined them - he left for BC. That situation is not bad - all this only contributes to everyone's Himalayan experience. Larin and Pashkov will go to the North Col tomorrow. So today there are the following members of our expedition who have pitch the tents and are spending night on the North Col: Abramov, Gudzhabidze, Pushkarev - tent ¹1; Kaymachnikov, Tsarev, Sergeev - tent ¹2. Everybody is feeling OK. The tents are up, the stoves are working, the lamps are not exploding any more. The only problem is to visit a Loo - though it is difficult to understand for those who are not high in the mountains. Good-bye. Alexander Abramov reports from ABC, Everest North Side: April, 16. I am reporting to the howling of the snow-storm behind my tent. It seems like the nature confused this day with the 13th. Today everything goes as it was planned: three altitude sherpas started for the North Col with a tent, three sleeping bags, etc. We are going to bring all the rest ourselves on April, 18. Las night Dima Moskalev was coughing, and at 12 o’clock he and Yura Soifer started down for the BC. The rest of us took an acclimatization walk to the North Col, the route to which is already fixed. Two hours later on the descent the weather changed instantly. The real snowstorm started with strong wind (and it still goes on). Igor Tsarev got into his tent and lighted a gas lamp to warm up. But the tent jumped because of the strong wind gust and the roof was caught on fire. Igor managed to throw the lamp out of the tent before it exploded. It’s OK, but the tent has a whole 1m per 1m, and Igor’s beard got burnt. Igor will move to Moscalev and Soifer’s tent for a while. The sherpas returned from the North Col… April, 15. Everybody slept well. It was snowing all night through, and the insides of the tents got covered with hoarfrost. Today we had the ABC opening ceremony. We put out the flags of Moscow and banners of our sponsors - "BASK" and "KANT"- and our team flag "Alpindustria Adventure Team". Yesterday Litinskiy's haul bag got lost on our way to ABC. Litinskiy was going to turn to UN for help, but today yakmen came with his bag and told us a horrifying story about the yak falling asleep on the way to ABC. Our team is getting acclimatized gradually. I recall yesterday's scene when we saw a Nepalese sherpa carrying down a sick Chinese in a basket. We hope, he'll be OK. Tomorrow we decided to take a walk to 6600m and leave there some gear for Camp 1. Today is full moon, and it would be great to be on the summit one month from now. Today the night is extraordinary warm and windless. Goodbye.

14.04.2003: Russian Adventure Team reached Everest Middle Camp (5800m) Base Camp   News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov: April, 14. "The sun appeared in the morning. We started for ABC. Today everybody walked a bit slower, except Sergeev and Gudzhabidze. By the way, Alexander Sergeev is almost 67 years old, and his physical condition gives some ground to say that he can become the oldest person to climb Everest. The way from Middle Camp goes along a prettiest glacier covered with "neve penitentes" 5 meters high. Today all of us walked with the same speed, and by 6 p.m. we had set ABC. Then the snowfall began, it became very cold. The North Col disappeared behind the snow curtain. Tomorrow we are having a rest day and the camp opening ceremony. Right now we are taking care of our camp and heads, which are aching badly, and trying to find out the information about fixed ropes on the North Col. Bye. April, 13. "Yakmen arranged everything smoothly and at 11.00 a.m. the team of yakmen with yaks came like a hurricane into our camp. Our expedition members were not ready for that and rushed to pack their things. At 1 p.m. we left BC. There were 11 of us – Vasya Elagin got ill and stayed in BC. One more member with a cough – Igor Tsarev – decided to go with the rest. Six of our team – Sergeev, Kaimachnikov, Gudzhabidze, Pushkarev, Pashkov and Larin – sped up and reached Middle Camp in 4 hours 15 minutes. The rest covered the same distance in 6 hours without any hurrying. It grew colder in the evening. It’s snowing right now in the Middle Camp. The black yaks resting on the ground became almost invisible. We hope tomorrow the weather will improve". Alexander Abramov for Mountain.Ru from Middle Camp Team sponsors: BASK company and KANT sports club. April,12. "The Day of Astronautics. This day began with arguing: what is more important for the society – space flights or Himalayan expeditions? The next topic was how many people die at altitude and why. This arguing resulted in our going to visit climbers’ cemetery. There are 6 Russians there already, all their plaques are on one and the same stone. Igor Tsarev reassured everyone saying that now at least it is clear where the plaque would be. We had an International meeting of doctors at BC today. The doctors of all teams gathered. There was a request when encountering a dead body on the mountain to make a picture of it so that later it would be possible to identify it. The thing is that the families are having lots of problems with insurance. We are all in good health. Today is our last quiet day. This evening our yaks arrived, and tomorrow we are moving towards ABC. We are supposed to arrive at ABC on April, 14. After that we’ll try to set up Camp1 on the North Col (7000m). We are getting daily weather forecast. Today it is –12C at ABC and –37 at the summit". April,11. "This night was much warmer than the previous one. The morning started with the knocking on the tent: “ Tea or coffee?”. As soon as we finished breakfast, lama came. Our Sherpas built a pile of stones and decorated it with flags. Lama started the ceremony of sanctifying our camp. The members of our expedition were taking pictures. Then the wind rose and we had to run after our altitude tents – we put them up to test them. We have 7 altitude tents. Then all of us said a little prayer to the success of our expedition. We are constantly having guests: a Chinese came this morning – but he spoke neither English nor Russian. Then an Australian came. Our yaks are supposed to arrive tomorrow evening – so we’ll start carrying loads to ABC. April,10. "The sun came out of the ridge and lightened the tent at 5 minutes to 10. At 10 a.m. the ice on my BASK sleeping bag – actually outer sleeping bag as I was sleeping in two bags - started melting. The night was a real nightmare: I was dreaming about the organization of the expedition time and again. In the morning I had a headache. I was saved by the sunrise and the cook – he brought coffee with milk. At 11 a.m. all expedition leaders gathered in a hospitable tent of Chinese expedition. It turned out that there were already 13 expeditions in the Base Camp. The main question on the agenda was about fixing ropes on the route. It was decided that Russell Bruce’s expedition and Chinese expedition will put all the ropes on the route. The rest expeditions will pay money depending on the number of expedition members. The atmosphere at the meeting was very friendly. I made friends with Estonians. At 12.00 the members of our expedition arrived. They got into an accident: on the way to BC one of the cars crashed into a bus. Fortunately, everyone got out safely. We have set the camp, started the generator. Tomorrow we’ll have the official opening ceremony of our camp.” Team sponsors: BASK company and KANT sports club.

09.04.2003: Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow reached Nyalam News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov: “April 9. It is still dark. We have a quick breakfast and off we go. We are in for a 5-hours drive. The trucks have to get over another pass. We stopped at Tashidzu village to wait for the second truck. In an hour we pressed on. After passing Rongbuk monastery, we saw Everest in all its beauty, though the clouds are coming, the weather is closing in. We drove up to the moraine where we stayed in 2000. The place is very nice and quiet, almost no wind, and no neighbors for the time being. The altitude is 5200m. I can feel a light headache already. While waiting for the second truck to bring the tents, I walked around in search of a liaison officer. I met several expeditions: the international expedition of Russell Bruce, American, Estonian expedition (4 members), Chinese (120 members), St.Petersburg expedition. There must be some others as well. Now the topic of the day is which expedition will put fixed ropes, and who will pay for that. Tomorrow at 11.00 a.m. there will be a leaders’ meeting. So I’ll have to go there. Our yaks to carry loads to ABC are already ordered for April 12. But may be because of the big number of expeditions we’ll have to shift it to April 14.” "April, 8. Morning in Nyalam. Looks like everybody is OK, though I heard some coughing at night. It is cold in the morning, -5C. We had flat bread, omelet and tea for breakfast. At 11.00 we started our way to Tingri on two Toyotas Landcruisers. The road is very dusty. We passed the pass of 5300m. It gives a splendid view of Xixapangma. In an hour we had an impressive view of Everest black and deprived of snow. Old Tingi seemed very dirty, poor, with nothing to look at, just Tibetans playing billiards in the street. So the team decided to take another hour and a half drive to Shigatse. But I am staying in Old Tingri. The team will spend two nights in Shigatse, and I will go to set BC tomorrow with two trucks. Everything will be ready by the time the guys arrive. It's not long till the real climb will start. We are looking forward to it! Good-bye." “April,7. In the morning we rushed to buy beer. It is of great importance at BC. People there drink it warm, mingled with hot water – it helps against quinsy. There was no need for us to choose among different kinds of beer yesterday – there turned out to be only one sort of beer in the store. Today we are leaving for Nyalam (3700m) – so today we’ll gain 1000m.Bye.” “April, 6 Our running around Katmandu and packing things seems to be an endless process. The corridors in our hotel are crammed with our loads. But finally everything is packed and put on a truck – 4 tongs of food and gear. Today the 12th member of our expedition – Pushkarev – joined us. Nobody knew him before, but he turned out to be a nice guy. Valentine Bozhukov visited us today – he came to talk us into using his invention – liquid oxygen. It is pored into bottles, evaporated thus creating the pressure of 300 atmospheres. But I consider this to be dangerous and don’t trust it. Kaimachnikov and Litinckiy should be in Lhasa by now, enjoying Chinese cuisine. Igor Tsarev is constantly filming everything and assembles the film on computer then and there. Almost everyone bought a whole howl bag of extra gear. Tomorrow, April, 7 at 7 a.m. we are leaving for Tibet. Good-bye to everybody and good luck.” “April, 5 Hello everybody. I am reporting directly from our hotel with a splendid view of night Katmandu. We have bought almost all foodstuffs. But it is problematic to find good lighters and matches. At 12:00 we went to Russian Embassy, where we spent 2 hours in a very pleasant conversation with the Russian ambassador – Valery Nazarov. We were given the symbol of Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs to take it to the summit of Everest. Vasya Elagin has arrived – so were are 11 now. But the entire team will gather only in BC: Volodya Pushkarev arrives tomorrow but two people – Kaimachnikov and Litinskiy – leave tomorrow for Lhasa. Tomorrow is our last day in Katmandu. Visas and permits are ready. Finishing touches and we are off. Best regards.” Team sponsors: BASK company.

04.04.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow Alexander Abramov   News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. Alexander Abramov reports from Kathmandu : "April,3 - divine city of Kathmandu awakens to the everyday hustle and bustle. We have breakfast and discuss our agenda. There are a lot of things to be done: equipment, foodstuffs, visas. There are many Russians in this city. This morning Katya paid us a visit. At miss Howly's request, she collects the information about all the expeditions on Everest. At midday we conducted negotiations with Asian Trekking (our operator in Nepal and Tibet). They gave us cook Passang and sirdar Sangbu - he has already been to the summit of Everest. I called Russian Embassy and invited Russian ambassador Valery Nazarov to join our team for dinner. He turned out to be very busy, but invited us to visit Russian Embassy tomorrow at 11:30. In the evening we went to "Lhapa" - famous Katmandu restaurant, where they give free meals to those who climbed Everest. Ambassador's deputy Pavel Volosov joined us there and wished our team good luck in our expedition. Our plans have changed a little - we are leaving for Tibet April, 6 - not April, 5 as it was planned originally. That way is even better. There are only 3 expeditions in Everest BC right now, though about 20 expeditions are planning to be there. So, tomorrow we are going to Embassy, and then - do the last preparations for the expedition. Good-bye. " Expedition Sponsors: "BASK" company and "KANT" sports club. Informational sponsors: web-site www.mountain.RU, web-site www.etur.ru and "Verticalniy Mir" magazine.

03.04.2003: News from Russian Adventure Team Everest expedition Leader of expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Katmandu: “At 3 a.m. Delhi time our group of 10 arrived at Delhi airport. We still had 16 hours before our connection flight to Katmandu. We all felt very tired and sleepy – the result of crazy months of preparations for the Everest expedition. It was a good thing that back in Moscow we had already planned to visit Tadge-Mahal – one of world’s wonders. It took us 4 hours (200km) to get there – all the way there we all were sleeping, snoring heavily. But we never regretted it – the sight was tremendous: impressive snow-white marble temple inlaid with semiprecious stones. The way back to Delhi passed as if in a dream. In the airport we found Sergei Larine and Bidzina Gudzhabidze – they both stayed at the airport and merely survived those 16 hours. The checking rules at the airport are very strict, they are fighting terrorism: they even confiscated my lighter. And here we are - in Gauri Shankar hotel, Katmandu. It’s 1 a.m. We fell at home here. This place is very familiar to us – our two previous Himalayan expeditions – Cho-Oyu 1999 and Everest 2000 – started here. Tomorrow we’ll be busy doing the final preparations for the expedition. But this will be tomorrow. And now the boy is bringing us some tasty Nepalese food. So I finish my report here. Bond appetite. " Team sponsors: BASK company and KANT sports club. Informational sponsors: www.mountain.ru web-site and “Vertikalniy Mir” magazine.