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03.02.2004: Winter Lenin tragedy Winter Lenin tragedy: the team summited Lenin Peak Feb 1 after spending night at 6000. They climbed via Arkin route. While descending Daniyar Mynzhysarov lost and attempts to find him did not give any results at night. Feb 2 searching raid was started at the altitude of 6500m and at 11-00 at 6200 m his body was found with a craniocereberal trauma. The group has started to descend with the dead climber. A helicopter from Almaty flew off at 12.45. Information from www.russianclimb.com

02.02.2004: A winter ascension to Lenin peak: chronology 30 January, 2004 January 29-30 the group spent night at 4400 m The temperature was -30C. The team work according to the plan. 28 January, 2004 The team spent night at 3900m without Mynzhasarov K. and Gia Tortladze - they felt ill. Nickolay Chervonenko was with the group. 27 January, 2004 The group ascended Puteshestvennikov (Travellers) pass where they stopped on spending the night. Because of avalanche danger of the slopes they refused to descend via the planned traverse. On January 28 they are descending in a direction of falling of water on a glacier. N.Chervonenko and G. Tortladze stayed below in connection with suspicion on cold and will catch up with group on January 28 on the paved track. 25 January, 2004 The team brought equipment from the meteorological station to the "onion field", the temperature was -25C, wind on the valley, deep snow. Today the rest day. The state of group is good. www.russianclimb.com

26.01.2004: Chronology of winter climbs to Lenin peak Information from www.russianclimb.com Lenin peak, North Face. ( Jacob Arkin's ("Metla") route, 1960, 5A - 31.01.88. - V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. (5A) the temperature during an ascention reached -50 degrees C. The head of the expedition - Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). Camps on 5500, 6000 and 6500 - snow caves. The same route - 3.02.90 - A.Koren, S.Jastrebov (Leningrad) The same route - 4.02.90 - L.Troshchinenko, A.Gumenjuk, A.Glushkovsky, A.Dorofeev, V.Ivanov, A.Mozhaev, A.Tsekoev (Leningrad), P.Totov, A.Matkalikov (Bulgaria). The same route - 02.90. I.Razuvaev, A.Brattsev (Moscow), used fixed ropes of previous group from Leningrad till 6100. These data from Gennady Starikov, chairman of the classification commission of Federation of Mountaneering of Russia, and from Valery Hrishchaty's book. The fifth winter climb to Lenin peak 27.02.93 have made by Shtarkov I. and Michael Afanasev by the same route. Practically without using of ropes, in alpine style, the approach on skis. Shtarkov was gone during the descent. Afanasev has shown miracles of struggle for a life - he spent night without tent, etc. on 6100 (tent whether has blown off, whether he could not find it). Then next 5 days he waited Shtarkov below. He returned to people with hard frostbites, and in Moscow he had lost some a heap of fingers. In the same summer he went again went on Lenin with expedition of the Moscow State University for searches SHtarkov (have not found), and has seized a pneumonia.

26.01.2004: Denis Urubko: winter assault of Lenin Peak Denis Urubko. Foto by G. Sokolov   Denis Urubko is about testing BASK equipment during his winter climb of one of the highest ex-USSR summits. One of the strongest Russian high-altitude climbers, a member of three Kazakh 8000-ers expeditions, a member of Polish winter expedition to K2, a usual partner of Simone Moro, Denis Urubko decided to use BASK equipment in his further expeditions. Cooperation of BASK and Denis started in January of 2004. The company has provided the climber with complete outfit for his next extreme expedition – winter ascension of Lenin Peak (7134 m). The expedition is to start on the 20th of January. Strongest climbing team from Kazakhstan includes A. Krynin, Dm. Mynjynsarov, N. Vilnetz, K. Raisov and Denis Urubko. The team is leaded by an experienced master of climbing Nicolas Chervonenko. Final choice of a route depends on weather and snow conditions in the region. The climbers plan to summit the peak in an alpine style. On the 16-18th of January the athletes had been acclimatizing at Ordjonikidze Peak (4410 m).

21.01.2004: The project "SNOW LEOPARD " in winter: ascension to Lenin peak Lenin peak   Start of the Expedition on Lenin peak (7134 m)- 21 January 2004. It is exactly three years ago from the moment when climbers of the Training Center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides and Central Sport Club of Army of Kazakhstan Republic decided to renew the old tradition - "the Snow Leopard". They decided to climb in the winter all 7000-ers of the former USSR , i.e. to realize the program " the Snow leopard " - in the winter. According this program the traverse two tops Karlytau (5450 m) - the Marble Wall (6400 m) has been climbed in the winter of 2000-2001 for the first time. This ascension has been marked by the third place in the Open mountaineering Championship of CIS , in high-altitude class. Further in winter of 2001-2002 the traverse of Khan Tengri (7010 m) was accomplished without helicopter support. Then the attempt of peak Pobeda (7439 m) has been undertaken in the winter 2002 - 2003, but it was failed because of plentiful snowfalls and avalanche danger conditions at the route - the team has been compelled to stop an ascension. According to the planned program, in the winter 2003 - 2004 it is planned to make an ascension on peak Lenin (7134 m). A planned route of an ascention of "Arkin" or via Razdelnaja (in dependence on a condition of a snow cover), in alpine stile. Nickolay Chervonenko is the head of expedition. He's the chief of the Center of Mountain Training of CSKA. Members: 1. Krynin Alexander 2. Samoilov Arseny 3. Mynzhasarov Danijar 4. Mynzhasarov Kajsar 5. Viltsen Nikolay 6. Raisov Kajrat 7. Urubko Denis 8.Tortladze Gija (Georgia) 9. Gubayev Alexander (Kyrgyzstan) All climbers have experience of winter climbs. N.Chervonenko, S.Samojlov, A.Krynin, K.Barbashinov have summited Khan Tengri in the winter two years ago, and before have passed travers Karlytau (5300) - the Marble Wall (6400) too in winter conditions. The team will go to Alajskuju valley to the bottom of Lenin peak through the cities of Bishkek and Osh by cars of Rescue Service. Then they will set the Base camp in Achik-Tashe. The finall decision about the route will be accepted in Camp 1 (4200). Two most comprehensible variants - a way through "skovoroda" and Razdelnaja top, as the most simple for the team, or through Lipkin's rocks and further on Metla, as the shortest and guaranteeing fast descent in case of unforeseen circumstances. ORGANIZERS OF EXPEDITION: Sports Committee of the Ministry of Defence of Kazakhstan Republic (The head - General Pavel NOVIKOV) Rescue Service of of Almaty 051 (director - Rinat KHAJBULLIN ) The Training center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides SPONSORS OF EXPEDITION: Tourist agency " Asia Tourism "; Mountaineering Camp " Tujuk Su ". The international Mountaineering camp " Akkol - Khan Tengri". For more details please refer to www.russianclimb.com