The project "SNOW LEOPARD " in winter: ascension to Lenin peak
Start of the Expedition on Lenin peak (7134 m)- 21 January 2004.
It is exactly three years ago from the moment when climbers of the Training Center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides and Central Sport Club of Army of Kazakhstan Republic decided to renew the old tradition - "the Snow Leopard". They decided to climb in the winter all 7000-ers of the former USSR , i.e. to realize the program " the Snow leopard " - in the winter.
According this program the traverse two tops Karlytau (5450 m) - the Marble Wall (6400 m) has been climbed in the winter of 2000-2001 for the first time. This ascension has been marked by the third place in the Open mountaineering Championship of CIS , in high-altitude class. Further in winter of 2001-2002 the traverse of Khan Tengri (7010 m) was accomplished without helicopter support. Then the attempt of peak Pobeda (7439 m) has been undertaken in the winter 2002 - 2003, but it was failed because of plentiful snowfalls and avalanche danger conditions at the route - the team has been compelled to stop an ascension.
According to the planned program, in the winter 2003 - 2004 it is planned to make an ascension on peak Lenin (7134 m). A planned route of an ascention of "Arkin" or via Razdelnaja (in dependence on a condition of a snow cover), in alpine stile.
Nickolay Chervonenko is the head of expedition. He's the chief of the Center of Mountain Training of CSKA.
Members:
1. Krynin Alexander
2. Samoilov Arseny
3. Mynzhasarov Danijar
4. Mynzhasarov Kajsar
5. Viltsen Nikolay
6. Raisov Kajrat
7. Urubko Denis
8.Tortladze Gija (Georgia)
9. Gubayev Alexander (Kyrgyzstan)
All climbers have experience of winter climbs. N.Chervonenko, S.Samojlov, A.Krynin, K.Barbashinov have summited Khan Tengri in the winter two years ago, and before have passed travers Karlytau (5300) - the Marble Wall (6400) too in winter conditions.
The team will go to Alajskuju valley to the bottom of Lenin peak through the cities of Bishkek and Osh by cars of Rescue Service. Then they will set the Base camp in Achik-Tashe. The finall decision about the route will be accepted in Camp 1 (4200). Two most comprehensible variants - a way through "skovoroda" and Razdelnaja top, as the most simple for the team, or through Lipkin's rocks and further on Metla, as the shortest and guaranteeing fast descent in case of unforeseen circumstances.
ORGANIZERS OF EXPEDITION:
Sports Committee of the Ministry of Defence of Kazakhstan Republic (The head - General Pavel NOVIKOV)
Rescue Service of of Almaty 051 (director - Rinat KHAJBULLIN )
The Training center of Rescuers and Mountain Guides
SPONSORS OF EXPEDITION:
Tourist agency " Asia Tourism ";
Mountaineering Camp " Tujuk Su ".
The international Mountaineering camp " Akkol - Khan Tengri".
For more details please refer to www.russianclimb.com 21.01.2004
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