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Information

Home Expedition Denis Urubko: ascension to Lenin peak in winter

Chronology of winter climbs to Lenin peak

Information from www.russianclimb.com

Lenin peak, North Face. ( Jacob Arkin's ("Metla") route, 1960, 5A - 31.01.88. - V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. (5A) the temperature during an ascention reached -50 degrees C. The head of the expedition - Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). Camps on 5500, 6000 and 6500 - snow caves.
The same route - 3.02.90 - A.Koren, S.Jastrebov (Leningrad)
The same route - 4.02.90 - L.Troshchinenko, A.Gumenjuk, A.Glushkovsky, A.Dorofeev, V.Ivanov, A.Mozhaev, A.Tsekoev (Leningrad), P.Totov, A.Matkalikov (Bulgaria).
The same route - 02.90. I.Razuvaev, A.Brattsev (Moscow), used fixed ropes of previous group from Leningrad till 6100.

These data from Gennady Starikov, chairman of the classification commission of Federation of Mountaneering of Russia, and from Valery Hrishchaty's book.

The fifth winter climb to Lenin peak 27.02.93 have made by Shtarkov I. and Michael Afanasev by the same route. Practically without using of ropes, in alpine style, the approach on skis. Shtarkov was gone during the descent. Afanasev has shown miracles of struggle for a life - he spent night without tent, etc. on 6100 (tent whether has blown off, whether he could not find it). Then next 5 days he waited Shtarkov below. He returned to people with hard frostbites, and in Moscow he had lost some a heap of fingers. In the same summer he went again went on Lenin with expedition of the Moscow State University for searches SHtarkov (have not found), and has seized a pneumonia.

26.01.2004

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