S. Moro: "I and Denis will try a new central route direct to the summit"

Expedition news from Simone Moro(www.russionclimb.com):

25.05.04
Trusting in the weather forecast and in our instinct we decided to return in base camp today and here we are now. We will remain only 48 hours. We will recover our energy and Denis will resolve his problem with "diarrhoea" Gerlinde, Ralf, Hirotaka and Boris remained at C2 and today they will work in fixing ropeū in the last part of the icefall. Tomorrow they would like to reach C3 at 7000 meters. From there they will try summit. We had been sorry to left C2 without helping our friends in fixing work but we were worry for avalanche danger and Denis physical problem. We still want to open a new route and we need energy and good weather as much as possible. Our friends understood our position and they had been friendly with us when we left them this morning at 5:30 a.m.

24.05.04
Today we stayed here in camp II and the weather is really bad. The last 3 hours it is snowing. Today also Ralf, Gerlinde, Boris and Hirotaka reached camp II. Ralf and Hirotaka today stay better. Boris forgot the tent poles in BC and so last night he slept in a tent pitched by bamboo…. Fortunately we had one more tent here in camp II, so we have 3 tents…! Tomorrow Ralf, Gerlinde, Boris and Hirotaka want to reach camp III, while Denis and I go to the rocky pillar. Today we will receive the weather forecast from Innsbruck and hope in good news, because only last night I counted more than 30 avalanches….


23.05.04
“Hello. We did start only today from BC, because the weather was so bad. Denis and I did start at 3 a.m. from BC at 4200 meters and reached after 10 hours fighting camp II at 6000 meters. We had snow till our knees and so we have to break trail. Finally we risked to not find the camp, because there was so many fog…. Ralf, Gerlinde, Hirotaka and Boris did stop at camp I, because Ralf has been hid by one stone on his leg and Hirotaka has problems with his stomach. So they will decide tomorrow morning if to continue or not. Also Denis has some problem with his stomach, but not so bad. Tomorrow morning Denis and I will decide if continue to 7000 meters, where begins the rocky part or if stay one more day in camp II for rest after this hard work in the snow… Bye till tomorrow.

21.05.04
Today morning Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka arrived here with a double helicopter flight. The team is completed and only Ed Viesturs and Veikka cancelled their participation because involved in the Everest Film Project and climb.
The second flight of today with Gerlinde and Hirotaki had been made with bad visibility and the pilot remained 1 hour with the helicopter off, here in Base Camp. Than he flew back to Pokhara in a short moment of good weather. Today we decided the route and teams for climb. Ralf and Gerlinde + Boris and Hirotaka will climb classical French route. I and Denis will try a new central route direct to the summit.....
We want to start tomorrow even the rain and clouds of this afternoon can cause one day delay. Follow us

20.05.04
It's raining since 24 hours till 5000 meters. We are quite worry that all this rain here, it means quite snow in the upper part of the mountain and it could increase the danger of our climb..... but we know that nature follow its roules....

Today we received the phone call from Ralf, Gerlinde and Hiroata that they were in airport ready to fly here by helicopter but the bad weather stopped the project of the team. Tomorrow they will try again and we will keep in touch for the weather reports here.

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24.05.2004