Simone Moro reports from Baruntse north face

Simone Moro, Denis Urubko
Doublet: Baruntse North Face & Annapurna
News from www.mountain.ru

20 April, 2004:

Hello, friends!
We are again in base camp after 3 nights spent outside the BC (2 in the face and one in ABC). Yesterday had been a real difficult day for the worst weather condition of the month and for the high technical difficulties climbed on the rocky part of the face.

Dry tooling, mix climbing, low visibility and 10 cm of fresh snow, had been the ingredients of the last day spent on the north face of Baruntse. We climbed (Camos and I) 70% of the most difficult and technical part of our route.

Tomorrow Denis and Boris will cimb on the fix rope and resolve the last 30 % of the high difficulties before reaching the ice plateau at 6300 meters.They also will move the tent I fixed at 5900, higher... Than they will come back and after rest we (Camos, Denis and I) will start for the summit attempt, climbing the last 800 meter of face in alpine style.
Follow us....Simone & C:

14 April, 2004

Hello!
We are back to base camp after first day spent on the face. We fixed 350 meters of rope in the first complicate part and we reached 5650 m. We belived it was easy snow slope but we had to climb on mix part and traverse big crevasses. We are not yet acclimatised and for that reason we will continue to fix rope on the face and come back in the evening. We planned to fix 800-1000 meters of rope and than continue in alpine style. The weather is cloudy expecially in the second part of the day.

Hello!
This is the first report from Baruntse base camp. We started from Italy the 28th March and after two days in kathmandu we began the trekking to approach the mountain. We decided to go to Everest Base Camp and climb Khala Patar 5600 m to have a better acclimatisation and than to come here in front of Baruntse Face and establish our base camp at 5100 meter. Yesterday and the day before we already established our ABC at 5250 meter few meters near "our" unclimbed face. Tomorrow we will climb the north ridge of Baruntse and spend two night there to get best acclimatisation and observ as near as we can the terrible north face.... After this acclimatisation step we will take rest and than start in alpine style to open our route and climb this untouch huge face of 2000 meter high.

Follow us.
Simone Moro

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21.04.2004