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Information

Home Expedition Denis Urubko: ascension to Baruntse and Annapurna

Simone Moro: "Today it was an incredible hard day"

Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko

 

News from Baruntse (translation by www.mountain.ru):

3 May, 2004
Here we are again. Today it was an incredible hard day. We've got up at 2 o’clock in the night and started with tent and everything at 3 o’clock, and only now, at 7 o’clock p.m. we arrived at the ridge. We climbed all the day, we never stopped, not for drinking, not for eating…. The face was very steep and the climbing was very difficult and mostly in rocky and icy part. All the day there was strong wind and so it was very cold also when the sun was shining. Some friends called us from the other base camps, because they were worried about us. But everything is ok now. Tomorrow we want to go to the north summit, the Khalima and than we will decide if continue to Baruntse main summit or if go back. It depends from the weather and how long we take to Khalima.
Follow us also tomorrow

2 May, 2004
Hi friends This night we slept very badly, because the 2-persons tent is really too small for tree people. This morning Denis and Camos started to resolve the last difficult part. After very delicate rocky and mixed climbing they are now in snow at 6300 meters and Denis is crossing from left to right side. The wind is not so strong as yesterday, but it persists to blow. Tomorrow we want to start definitely to summit, but we are worried about the wind. Also we can't stay too long here in tent, because our gas will finish soon… Ciao till tomorrow

1 May, 2004
(first call via satphone)
Denis and I arrived just now in camp 1 at 6200 meter. We prepared the tent which Denis and Boris took down for avoid to be destroyed by the wind and the snow. Today all the fixed ropes were covered by half-meter snow, only the fixed ropes in the rocky part were free. Now Denis and I will try to continue a little more on the difficult rocky part before reaching the snow part.

(second call)
Hello, here we are again. Now we three stay in the tent, preparing food. Denis and I climbed 20 meters more and I think there are 20 meters more of very difficult climb before arriving on snow, but now there is storm. Tomorrow, if the weather wants, we will continue.

03.05.2004

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