Simone Moro: "It had been very difficult"
Simone Moro shared his impressions after ascending Baruntse by the new route
(translation by www.mountain.ru ): New route on "Khali Himal or Baruntse Nord" 7066 m
It had been very difficult, very... but at the end using all our capacities and resistance we reached our objective. The north face of Khali Himal or Baruntse north is really big, vertical, dangerous, impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only the ices of the trekkers and climber had been dreamed a climb on that wall after looking the mountain. We knew that we have to use all our capacities and strengths to have success on that face. And it happened...
We struggled four days and nights again wind, could, mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivvy 4 days in three people in a tend of two... We never found place to set it good and only our legs hanging in devoid. Ice crew, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been used to climb the complicate wall, but the real struggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35 m/sec (120 Km/h) wind during all the ascent and also on the summit!!!
We had been very happy to reach the summit through this new and first route and we spend 12 hours to come down from the mountain rappelling on a single ice crew for 20 times...
The name of the route is "Ciao Patrick" because we dedicated the climb to Patrick Berhault recently dead. It was our friend and mythus.
The specification of our new route you can see below. Now we will have a rest and then we will fly to Annapurna I 8091 m for a new challenge.
Thank you to follow us
Simone 07.05.2004
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