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02.03.2005: The most prestigious climbing award `Piolet d]Or’ was presented in Grenoble (France) on the 25st of February. Photo by A.Piunova   The climb of Alexander Odintsov’s team up the North Face of Jannu (7710 m, Himalayas) was recognized as the most important event of the last climbing season. It is the 14th time when GHM club and Montagnes Magazine award `Piolet d’Or’. The honorable prize was established in 1991. It is aimed to mark the most important climbing achievements. Special qualified jury, that includes most prominent climbers and several outdoor journalists, chooses a winner from several candidates. In this, 2005 year, there were six nominees. One of them – a team of Alexander Odintsov – was declared to be the absolutely best. Russians have captured climbing `Oscar’ for the fourth time. And each time their expeditions used BASK equipment. Here they are: 1998 – a team from Yekaterinburg; climb of the West Face of Makalu 2002 – Valery Babanov; solo-climb of Mery The Central 2004 – a duo of Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko; climb of Nuptse 2005 – a team from Saint-Petersburg leaded by Alexander Odintsov; climb of the North Face of Jannu A team of Alexander Odintsov, an author of `Russian Way – Faces of the World’ project, has been nominated for `Piolet d’Or’ three times. Three of seven `Russian Way’ routes were qualified by experts as extra-class climbs and included in shot-list of a `Piolet d’Or’ competition. Russian routes up Bagirathi (India) and Trango-Tower (Pakistan) were included in a top-100 list of best climbs of the 20th century, but they didn’t win `Piolet d’Or’. This time a climb of the North Face of Jannu, this vertical 7000+ route that was considered to be one of the hardest technical climbs throughout all history, was estimated at its true worth and got its just reward. We congratulate our compatriots – new owners of `Piolet f’Or’!

26.05.2004: JANNU NORTH FACE IS CONQUERED!!! Alexander Odintsov has just telephoned: 27.05.04 We passed your congratulation to the guys. They thank kindly all who beleived and supported them during their way up. The star-heros Sasha Ruchkin and Dima Pavlenko are on their way down now and Totmyanin, Borisov, Kirievsky are ready to start summit bid, but the weather is not good, maybe tommorow... 26.05.04 Today Alexander Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko have reached the summit!!! Tomorrow's ascent to the peak is planned by the pair of climbers - Borisov-Kirievsky. The ascent of other members of the team is dependent on weather conditions. (Translation by www.mountain.ru) "Jannu - The Wall of Shadows - The worlds most awesome big wall has been climbed" Read on www.MounEverest.net

25.05.2004: Jannu: having overcome a pain and doubts Bolotov... is climbing to the camp II (6700m) The last expedition news from Jannu (translation by www.mountain.ru): 25.05 (7.00 a.m. by Moscow time) It is very bad weather. It has being snowing all the night long and in the morning and there is a strong wind at the all altitudes. Pavlenko-Ruchkin tried to leave on the route at 6.00 a.m., but they had to return to the portaledge at 7400m. Having overcome a pain and doubts Bolotov ascended to the camp I (5600m), and now he and Totmyanin together are climbing to the camp II (6700m). Odintsov remains at the camp I. Kirievsky and Borisov are at the camp III under the wall (7000m). Because of illness Pershin and Mikhailov are staying in the base camp. We hope that the situation will change within this day. M.Bakin. 24.05 Today a two-man team Pavlenko-Ruchkin continued working on the wall. It's formed the impression that the ridge is like a line of horizon: the closer we approach to it the farther it appears. Today the guys made approximately a pitch of 60 meters. If to look at the photo the top point of fixed ropes is on the left and above the big snow basin under the top and does not reach the summit ridge a little. But to a certain extent it is our assumption as because of overcast the wall is not visible, and the climbers do not see the ridge because of hanging cornices. The weather is unstable today, but it is better, than yesterday. It is not snowing. Let's see that tomorrow's day will bring. M.Bakin.

22.05.2004: JANNU North Face. 21 May, 2004. Doctor Mikhail Bakin: "Hanging chimney with a block had been climbed..." Reports from Doctor Mikhail Bakin: 22 May, 2004 In the morning Mike Mikhailov suddenly felt ill and had to descend to the base camp. Now he is still there and feels not bad. In spite of the bad weather the two-man team Ruchkin-Pavlenko continued climbing the wall: the relief represents vertical walls crossed by ledges. Rocks are strongly destroyed, in addition the altitude is almost 7600m, and it has been snowing all the day long without interruption. For today the guys managed to climb about 30 meters. The climbers comment their impressions about climbed part of the wall (above the camp at 7000m): M.Mikhailov: "There is no meter where you can relax: either vertical or hanging wall". S.Borisov: " All of 500 meters of fixed ropes are in the air..." Today S. Borisov and G.Kirievsky's ascended the camp I at 5600m. After some rest and treatments Sergey feels well. 21 May, 2004 Today the weather, as well as yesterday, was non-working. It was snowing since the morning though night was cold and clear. The advanced party worked in spite of those conditions. They climbed very hard 30 meters more, and what meters! Hanging chimney with a block had been climbed. It's possible to tell, that we were hooked for a "roof". They could see in dense overcast the further internal corner with shelfs and vertical walls, which are not monolith as it seems from below. But it's not a hang rock yet. Tomorrow Sergey Borisov, Gennagy Kirievsky and Nickolay Totmjanin leaves for camp 5600. " As I think, our process hangs, as a drop on a nose. And where this drop will fall, depends on many (and casual - that's the main thing) circumstances. As it has happened with Serguey Borisov and Alex Bolotov. But guys struggle, as Mtsyri (Russian heroic poetry personage - ed.note). May be, the God will render for heroism and courage. Each day is as critical for us. We wait that the wall will begin to be slightly less steep. The weather is worthless, it snowing on a wall the second day. A wall is covered by a cloud, nothing is visible, therefore don't wait the information before the evening connection. Greetings to all.. Doctor Mike" May, 21 20 May, 2004 There was bad weather all the day long. It is raining in the base camp, and is snowing on the wall. A party Ruchkin-Mikhailov could climbed 30 meters above 7500 for 10 hours. (www.russionclimb.com)

19.05.2004: Jannu: dramatic events in details from doctor M.Bakin 20.05 There was bad weather all the day long. It is raining in the base camp, and is snowing on the wall. A party Ruchkin-Mikhailov could climbed 30 meters above 7500 for 10 hours. 19.05 Hi, friends! Today Mikhailov's group ascended the latest highest camp: the portaledge hanging at 7400m. If weather permit, tomorrow the guys plan to continue fixing the wall above 7500. But the weather may not allow. In the base camp it was raining all the day long, but on the wall it was snowing. All the others are staying in the base camp for a while. The health state is in reasonable limits. 18.05 Hello, friends! Briefly I am going to state the events of the last days and our prospects as they are seen now. At once all of us did not inform you on ethical reasons, i.e. before returning Bolotov's group in the base camp. Under the plan, on 14 of May in the morning Pershin and Totmyanin had to haul a portaledge from 7200m up to 7400m and descend passing forward Bolotov's group that was ascending from the camp at 7000m. But since the morning Michael Pershin badly felt himself (he has got a haemorrhage of eye's retina) and had to descend. Totmyanin hauled the portaledge on 200 meters alone and descended to the camp at 5600m. Bolotov, Borisov and Kirievsky climbed at 7400, settled a camp and stayed there to spend the night. Next day, descending to the base camp Totmyanin was injured by a falling stone. His face and leg hurt, but after having had a rest and some treatment he feels better and saved capacity for work. On 15 of May two-man team Bolotov - Borisov worked on the wall. They made a very complex pitch. 16.05, the group was approaching to the top point of fixed ropes and a stone dropped right on Sergey Borisov's head. "Cassidy" was lost, but it rescued the head. Borisov got off with a scratch of skin. Obviously he was not able to work further and descended into the portaledge where Evgeny Kirievsky rendered him first aid and bandaged the wounded head. As Sergey felt not bad he decided to descend further alone. Bolotov and Kirievsky continued work on the wall. But approximately two hours later Alexey climbing the most complicated cornice fell and got his rib broken. Thus the situation on 16th of May looked as follows: Wounded Alexey Bolotov and escaped Gena Kirievsky were in the portaledge at 7400m, in the camp at 7000m - Sergey Borisov with wounded head and in the lowermost camp at 5600m the group of Mike Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, Dmitry Pavlenko stayed having ascending to it after they had a rest. I will not describe all subsequent details. On 17 of May Borisov descended into the base camp. And now he is all right. Today, i.e. on 18 of May Bolotov and Kirievsky returned to the base camp. Now everything turned out safely, but unfortunately Alexey have to end the ascent. Because of these drama events we lost 4 working days. For the present time we reached 7500m. The group led by Mikhailov is in the camp at 7000m under the wall now and tomorrow they will get the portaledge at 7400m and begin to work on the wall the day after tomorrow, i.e. 20.05. Weather is unstable. M.Bakin. Translation by www.mountain.ru

19.05.2004: Bolotov's three-man team climbed up to the last summit cornice Sergey Borisov   Odintsov called and informed the latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru): Bolotov's three-man team climbed up to the last summit cornice, but they did not overcome it completely because of traumas of climbers (Alexey Bolotov, Sergey Borisov, Michael Pershin were injured). I hope that they have already descended into the base camp, called home and informed their relatives about their health states. The doctor renders the guys first aid. Three-man team led by Ruchkin (Ruchkin-Mikhailov-Pavlenko) went to change leading group and to climb the cornice and three last pitches left after it. According to Ivan Samoilenko this year a monsoon is coming early. It is not as usual. But before arrival of the monsoon the team should have some days of good weather more during which the leading three-man team will be able to make the last pitches, summit and descend before bad weather begins. The expedition should be completed till June, 1. Sergey Borisov's impressions. Letter from 05.05 Hi, everybody! Yesterday on May, 6 we returned from the last 4-th trip into the wall. And I have understood that everything we had done before was a prelude. And just now a real WORK began!!! In the third trip our group restored fixed ropes up to 7000m and reactivated the portaledge: we spent two nights in it. The bad weather did not allow us to go further. The bad weather began on 22-nd of April and it still holds: nobody could see Jannu in all its glory. It takes three days or 50-52 pitches (5600, 6700 and 7000) to reach to the camp at 7000. All the pitches are really abrupt. On May, 1 we came at 7000 to replace Totmyanin's group. They finally finished to dig the platform and set the tent. Because of heavy snowing and a strong wind they did not work that day and descended. After the afternoon the wind dropped a little and we could change the tent on the portaledge. The previous one "did not breathe". During our last trip we gasped for breath and the gas did not burn in the previous tent, when it was totally closed. And, when it was slightly open we were swept up by snow. Moreover there was strong "condensate" in it. On May, 2-nd Bolotov and I went to work. The first, that we could see, was our broken portaledge. A storm pulled out one ice screw and the portaledge was twirled. The skeleton of the portaledge was bent and broken. The tent and the tension ropes were torn too. Then we informed about that the guys and began climb. They spoke that the fixed ropes were no lumps of sugar, but the reality surpassed all expectations. We climbed only five pitches on slanting and abrupt ropes for 4,5 hours. To tell the truth, all this was at the altitude higher than 7000 m and the wall was practically vertical. A wind only added our "pleasures". Its impulses knocked down us sideways and turned back to the wall. This day Alexey climbed about 8-10 meters for 3 hours. All of this did not add enthusiasm to us. But it was of 8-10 meters of hanging site. And having climbed it Alexey approached under the following hanging. The wall seems less abrupt further. Descent on a slanting fixed ropes is not a pleasure. And traverse on abrupt ice in blunted crampons was somewhat! During our expedition we had remained only a half from our front points. We could stand on them like a cow on ice. But everything comes to the end. We were in the tent: suffocated by cough to death of it. Gennady gave us to drink a lot. Then we contacted to the base. Tomorrow Gennady and Alexey will work upwards, I w ill be engaged in fixing. It is a small plus to me, I will leave the tent not at 8, but at 10 a.m., when the sun reaches the tent. We were short of ropes and some gear. It depressed all of us. I asked Alexey to take a rope and gear at descending. The new fixed rope is not all cakes and ale. In one place you do not touch the wall about four meters, but there is no traverses and slanting lines there. The guys descended, brought the rope and already in darkness crept in the tent. We felt cold but we were in the tent. We had a bad mood: even wanted to descend tomorrow. We climbed only a bit, but toiled a lot descending. There was a cold and a strong wind. We were exhausted. Having taken a sip we began to decide what to do further? We could talk only between impulses of a wind. The head hooted from noise. With the base we could speak on our command when a wind did not strongly blow. On 4-th of May the guys went ahead. I slept further. It meant that I had a rest. But spending all the day long in the tent at 7000 does not add health and it is considered as a rest conditionally. Alexey climbed all hangings and, the route seems to become easier further. Having finished a pitch we began to make next one and returned to the tent in darkness. Tomorrow Alexey and I will work; Gennady will descend. Soon Mikhailov and Ruchkin will change us. Now they spend the night at 6700. For the first time there was no wind at night. But we could not sleep. All of us were tormented with cough. In the morning we went upwards. The fixed pitch impresses. It hangs freely not touching the wall about 30 meters. And it is at the altitude 7200-7300m. We began to climb upwards: friends, stoppers, sometimes pitons, etriers, free climbing on 1-1,5 m sites twice. But we moved very slowly. I reached a grotto where there could be a ledge, but I could find only abrupt ice. Having organised next pitch we decided that it was enough for today. From three ice screws we could twirl only one just having hammered it by halves. In tent we met our change. They gave us to drink and fed. We treated them to spirit and went to sleep. Alexey was without a sleeping bag but in a down jump-suit and in two down parkas. But he got a cold all the same. Having sent the guys for work in the morning at 10 a.m. we began to descend: via 1,5 -km vertical wall, 50 pitches, and at 17.00 we were in the base camp. Here it is - our happiness! S.Borisov.

17.05.2004: Jannu: for the first time in a history of mountaineering, the hanging portaledge was hauled and settled on the wall at 7400 m Working at 7400m   The latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru): 17.05 Nikolay Totmyanin reports: Pershin as the leader and I once again worked our way through the wall. For three days we made two and more pitches, and one of the days we spent getting over a cornice. Somewhere on a sea level he would overcome such steep wall for a pair of hours. Last working day I hauled the portaledge at 7400m. Now Eketerinburg climbers work above it, and having descended yesterday we are staying in the base camp now. The snow on the plateau has become such limp, that we fall through up to the waist even in snowshoes! There is winter above, but lower than 6000 m spring came into its own. I do not complain of my health. Descending from 5100 m on the last pitch I got a little bit scratched my face and my favorite glasses broken by a rolling stone, but today in the morning I had a shave for the first time. It seems the mountain does not want to let bearded person to come nearer to it. Finally speed of movement was stabilized on one pitch a day. Not densely, but it is not bad. On the "roof", because any high mountain has own roof, the speed should increase! I hope that in the nearest 7 days we shall get up on it. Let's not guess our fortune. We miss home very much, but we have to finish the epopee. We have spent forces and means a lot. The team is powerful, another time we would not collect such team. We thought that we were engaged in mountaineering earlier. It appeared baby-talk in comparison with climbing on Jannu. P.S. Today in the afternoon the advanced three-man team had to stop work on the route and descend in the tent at 7000 m because of impulses of a gale-force wind. In the photo you can see a route-line with already fixed ropes. 15.05 Nikolay Totmyanin reports from the base camp: Yesterday, on May, 14, for the first time in a history of mountaineering, the hanging portaledge was hauled and settled on the wall at 7400 m. The advanced group every day leaves in "free space" and wins a meter after meter from the vertical wall. We recovered from the psychological shock from the first acquaintance to the wall. It is not a rarity any more to make only a pitch a day. And we show real aerobatics free climbing three - four meters. We can see 2-3 very complex pitches ahead: 80-degrees plates 1-2-meter cornices and at last a vertical 20-meter chimney with destroyed, opening outside walls deep cut in a six-meter cornice. Each working hour on the mountain is overcoming impossible. We can not see what there is above and it means there should be more gently sloping. The psychological pressure is increasing. We cannot demand from each other to put on speed, as we do not know even our own maximum opportunities, at first. Second, we should be cautious, now we have no right on a mistake. I ask all gods and saints to protect us from wrong actions. Today the three-man ream Bolotov - Borisov - Kirievsky works ahead. They have made one more pitch. For the present the weather is in favour of us. 14.05 Hi, friends. The group Mikhailov-Ruchkin-Pavlenko continues to restore forces in the base camp, due to ours kindhearted doctor Michael Bakin. He treats everyone and in every way possible. As all of us, having swallowed cold, cough like steam locomotives, our throats-noses are exposed to smoking of hookahs, rinsing and greasing of throats and everyone is going to be completely recovered. Those who are especially cripple the doctor makes massage, and humpbacked become harmonous, and lame start to go, and the life is adjusted. Work on a wall takes its normal course, the group Pershin - Totmyanin made some pitches and having reached the black strip crossing all the wall, they ascended on 15 meters higher it. We came nearer even closer to cherished purpose. Today Bolotov's group ascending already the third day for work on the wall, left the high-altitude camp at 7000m on the portaledge which Nick Totmyanin hauled on a new place, at about 7400m. Now it is closer and more convenient to work on a wall above 7400m. Moving took placesafely, the guys in full complement: Bolotov - Borisov-Kirievsky, reached 7400m, set the portaledge, hauled all needed things for their life there, i.e. all biwy with life-support for 4 days for the further fixing a complex site of the wall. Totmyanin and Pershin descended in the camp at 5600m. Tomorrow Bolotov's group will fixed above 7400m, and the group led by Totmyanin descend to have a rest to the base camp.That's all our news about what happened on May, 14. You will hear from us soon. Our greetings to everybody who waits for us and believes in us. Ruchkin

14.05.2004: Greeme Dingle greets our team Basic Camp at 7000   Graeme Dingle, who was the leader of the New Zealand team made the first attempt at Jannu North Face in 1975, greets our team (translation by www.russianclimb.com): The route your team is attempting is indeed audacious. We climbed the wall further to the left and reached the summit ridge but not the summit due to hurricane force winds. It was post monsoon and the wall was plastered in ice with extreme avalanche danger. For 1975 it was technically difficult - possibly one of the hardest climbs in the Himalaya at that time. The very best of luck to your climbers. Best Regards Graeme Dingle May,14, 5-49 a.m. News from Alexander Ruchkin: 14.05 Hi, friends, here's the Spring, by the end, at this high-altitude corner! And it isn't clear - is it good or no for us... We noticed it already during the last descent - our ice screws and stations melted off from the ice. It became wormer with every rope down. There were frozen waterfalls at 6000 m, and we found our ropes under the ice about some ńentimeters, and we had to free them from the ice prison, and to descend only after that. It's an impression that the Mount don't want to free unbidden guests who had broken her rest. Tired hard, we went down with Mikhail Mikhailov along frozen ropes. Mike went the first and freed ropes from ice, used spesial Russian lexicon, and I followed him with the same words and tryed to put icy rope into gri-gri. Five days which we spent above 7000m gave the result - we were shaken because been very tired, and our crampon's teeth were rubbed out - so we looked like cows at the ice. We leaved in the portaledge at 7200, so could begin to work earlier and didn't spend so much time to ascend by ropes. The route from 7000 m is a vertical granite wall, with carnices which are already the problem at the sea level, not at 7000 m. Climbing grade above 7000 m is about 6B (Russian Grade) or A3 (if transmit the wall closer to the sea and use the rock shoes instead of Millets) There were cracks at the absolutely smooth wall, but the thinest hooks could't been installed into it, and what could I say about fingers? And after that relief, where we could find something, we went till carnice, where the first of us had to use the smallest nuts, stoppers, testing the calmness of the second of us. Then in the wide cracks, there were stones, wedged or frozen in ice - so we used camalots or friends, which safed us only at the edge of fall. The rock was constantly hanging ower us, and we had to strained all our forces - and felt then into the portaledge, tired, and couldn't move. Our expectation that the wall will soon be not so steep - is only an illusion, and our friends who changed us at the wall, have confirmed it. Totmjanin and Pershin work three days at the wall, and carnices follower each other, and the rock hangs over as earlier. It's incredible wall, may be, it's the most difficlult wall at such altitude. But we climb it, and there are already not so far from the summit. God bless us. Ruchkin, May,14, 7-29 a.m

13.05.2004: A.Ruchkin: "It appeared that Jannu coqueted with us" At 7200   Alexander Ruchkin from BC (translation by www.russianclimb.com): Hi, friends! We have descended again on our tired legs - we can't understand how to go on the plain. Eight days we went only by ropes, up or down. Four of them - upwards, estimating the route on the rock which is unclimbed yet. We went three days to 7000 m, then two nights at 7000, then two nights at 7200 m. Our faces look like Chinese - because of lot of water which has been drunk by our organizms, dryed in that thin air above 7200 m. It appeared that Jannu coqueted with us. She's like the forbidding woman - she allows us to approach to the definite point, and no further. All our attempts were poor - 5 m, 20 m, 30 m per day - what does it mean for the route 2,8 km length... We remember nothing like this route. The Mount confirms it by every meter of Wall above 7200. Four days of climbing above 7200 - our ropes doesn't touch the rock, they are hanging down in the air. You have to concentrate all your abilities to climb only 50 meters per day - you descend to the portaledge in evening being squeesing out, without any forces, and you absolutely can't move. Only drink a lot... And your morning begins in the portaledge at 5-6 a.m. You melt the ice, boil the water, cook the breakfast, and prepare the water, water, water... Having drunk enough (it's impossible really), you begin to prepare for start. I've fixed the time nesessary to become ready to start - it's about the hour - only to dress. The portaledge is hanging on the air, you can't touch the rock, you have to begin to ascend on jumars immediately. We climbed with all our equipment arsenal. There's hang rock, we can't see our future route because of carnices, and above them there are next carnices... We couldn't imagine that there're hanging monolites at such altitude. But reality is so - you have to climb with all your iron, because any thing would be nesessary. You cut your body from the portaledge with all this equipment and climb - from santimeter to next santimeter in that thin air. The relief is very difficult for climbing, you have to think how to go further. You have to solve the problem of climbing through the carnice. You climb on the crack, but it's ended - you have to go further - think, my head, please... We climbed 3,5 pitches in 4 days and reset the portaledge at 7200 m. We descended in evening to reach it before the sunset. When we descended to BC and rested one day there, Totmjanin and Pershin climbed two more pitches on the Wall. So, we have 11 pitches at the very difficult part of the route. Good luck for all of you - and for us too. Ruchkin, May, 12, 20-21 p.m.

12.05.2004: Jannu North Face Wall: 8,5 vertical ropes were fixed from 7000 m Last news from doktor M.Bakin (translation by www.mountain.ru): 10.05. Good afternoon, friends! Today two-man team Ruchkin-Mikhailov has made one more pitch for a day. They descend to have a rest, and tomorrow two-man team Pershin-Totmyanin will begin to work on the wall. Totally the team has fixed 8,5 vertical ropes from 7000 m. Weather seems suspiciously good today, it is even frighten. The Russians always concern to good with suspicion, expecting after that any global meanness. Let see, what will be tomorrow. In the base camp mountain goats approach on 8-10 meters. We can see whole herds with small kids. I thought so close they can be seen only in a zoo. M.Bakin. 09.05. Today, having overcome cornices two-man team Ruchkin-Mikhailov made a pitch right vertically upwards. Weather is not bad: it is fine above with a clean sky, below it is cloudy, moderate windy, but without deposits. We congratulate all of you on the holiday. M.Bakin. 08.05. Yesterday we hauled the portaledge up to the top point of fixed ropes (it saves approximately 6 hours) and today advanced two-man team Ruchkin-Mikhailov has set up some kind of a record - they made the hardest pitch on the most complicated rocks. Tomorrow they plan to continue the ascent. There is a difficult site ahead with a system of cornices approximately in 15 meters. Weather is fine today, but I do not know, how it will be tomorrow. All of us are more or less healthy. M.Bakin.

06.05.2004: Jannu North Face Wall furiously resists At the wall   N.Totmyanin informs from BC (translation by www.mountain.ru): 5.05 Hello friends! That last site that we have to climb reminds very much the American diretissima on Petit Dru or a combination of cruxes of Semiletkin, Popenko and Bezzubkin's routes on Svobodnaya (Free) Korea. We have to climb fixed ropes for three days up to 7000 m to continue the work on the wall. We have two entrance-gate camps at 5600 m and 6700 m, i.e. we spend the night in them and go further. The camp at 7000 m has the special status: we live in it. It should be maximum comfortable to have a rest and restore forces for working on extremely difficult surface. Our group spent all the day to cut out in ice a 2õ2 meters platform under a tent for Efimov's group. I have been on "7-thousand" mountains for 35 times, but for the first time biwy organization at 7000m took so much time and forces. A half of the tent is cut in the slope and closed from above by 3õ4m awning and dust avalanches fly above, not causing harm. We have to climb via combined relief: 70-90-degrees rocks with ice spanked block and rocky cornices. For aid climbing we use universal rocky pitons of 2-5 mm, bent channels of 3 different sizes, stoppers, friends and camalots. Also we have unscrewed bolts for monolithic sites and sky hooks. Ice sites of the wall represent firm ice spanked blocks of thickness from meter up to several centimeters. We successfully use ice screws, ice tools and ice fifi on them. If to count the weight of clothes, footwear and crampons the leader has about 15 kg hanging on him. Free climbing in "Millet" footwear, warm multilayered clothes and in gloves from Polartec is rather problematic. The rocks are dry, but cold. Temperature is negative 15-20. While the leader covered in sweat goes ahead, the belayer struggles with cold. There are 5 pitches from camp at 7000 m prior to the beginning of fixed ropes and we have to spend 4 hours to get there since the morning. The immediate task of the advanced group is to fix even two more ropes and to hang up one more portaledge closer to the beginning of fixed ropes. Today Bolotov's group is ahead. Mikhailov's group and Ąlexander Odintsov ascended at 5600 m. The advanced two-man team climbed 5 m of the cornice for this day and straightened the fixed ropes: it makes easier to ascend, haul gear and will save the time of ascent at least on one or one and a half of hour. A bad consequence of our work at high altitude is constant cough. The doctor prescribes different treatment in the base camp, including inhalations with herbs. We have an electric inhaler, which effectively helps to struggle with respiratory illnesses. One more problem at such altitude is dehydration of organism. Morning and evening consumption of liquid is obviously not enough. The advanced two-man team takes a thermos on the wall, but they can drink only on the top point of pitch, further the leader climbs upper and works as a navvy up to the end of the working day without drink. The basic drink is tea. " Princess Nuri " in bags is well made in "boiled water" at 7000 m. Other drinks are instant coffee, cocoa, juices and milk in different combinations. In the base camp we would like to drink a beer and fruit compotes. The wall furiously resists. But the team has a fighting spirit. Our greetings to everybody! P.S. Yesterday rather sad event happened. At a portaledge we had prepared to haul and hung at 7000 meters, was pulled out one of 4 points of fastening, and a strong wind broken the poles of a skeleton. The spare complete set of poles will be lifted by Mikhailov's group in 2 days. All this does not accelerate the ascent. 02.05. The two-man team Bolotov-Borisov continued climbing the wall. They have made only one pitch for a day: our ascent goes slowly. And the reasons are obvious: high altitude (more than 7 000m) and a vertical wall with hanging sites. Today there is good weather: sunny day, clean sky, but there is a strong wind and it is rather cold. The hanging on the sun socks washed in the morning, were frozen. Tomorrow M.Mikhailov and A.Odintsov's group leaves the base camp at 5600. Our greetings to everybody and the best regards. M.Bakin.

29.04.2004: Panasonic-Jannu: Today Totmyanin's group ascended at 7000m News and comments from M.Bakin (translation by www.mountain.ru): Good afternoon! Two-man group Pavlenko -Mikhailov continued fixing the rope. Having made 2,5 pitches for two days (it is higher than the top point of the last autumn fixed ropes) the guys descended into the camp at 6700m. Today Totmyanin's group ascended at 7000m. The whole day long they were preparing a place for a tent as the portaledge is going to be lifted from 7000 to the Wall upper. The base camp was visited by the group from Ekaterinburg: Dmitry Frolenko, Andrey Krylov and Jury Lutsak. Under the plan Bolotov's group starts working on the Wall tomorrow, and Mikhailov's group descends into the base camp. Weather holds unstable, but it allows us to continue our ascent.

28.04.2004: Panasonic-JANNU North Face: two-man Ruchkin-Mihailov ascended the altitude above 7200m In the camp at 6700   Doctor Bakin informs (translation by www.mountain.ru): 28.04 M.Mikhailov's group, which has been staying in the camp at 7000m, started work on the Wall. Two-man Ruchkin-Mihailov started work directly the Wall and ascended the altitude above 7200m - it is upper than the end of the rope had fixed before. Tomorrow they plan to continue fixing. The group led by Totmyanin ascended to the camp at 6700m. Tomorrow they is going to reach 7000m. Odintsov came from base camp in the camp at 5600. Weather today is quite good for Jannu. It is snowing periodically, a wind is not so strong. That 's all for today all. Our greetings to all of you. 27.04 Mikhailov's group (M.Mikhailov, A.Ruchkin, D.Pavlenko) went today to the advanced camp at 7000ģ. If circumstances allow, they will begin work on the wall. N.Totmyanin and M.Pershin left the base camp this morning and now they are staying in the camp at 5600m. Bolotov's group (A.Bolotov, S.Borisov, G.Kirievsky), descended from the camp at 7000 and have a rest now. Tomorrow in the morning the head of the expedition A.Odintsov plans to get to the camp at 5600m. The weather has a little improved and reminds like the weather in the last autumn. With one difference: in the autumn after 1.00-2.00 p.m. it started raining, bur now it begins snowing. At all altitudes. But the first half of day leaves us freedom for manoeuvre. The other is only known to God. Today having taken strength the climbers led by their head constructed a snow-woman in the base camp. Odintsov refused the canons of a snow sculpture familiar from the childhood (with nose-carrots). Inspired like Mikelandgelo, he modelled rather expressive... figure. Even there was a fear, if she would visit the tents at night (*Mountain.ru: Have you ever read "Venera Ill'skaya", P. Merime's short story?) With the masterpiece in the background we were photographed with flags of sponsors. Mountain goats walk near to the camp. You can come on 7-10 meters close to them. This is National Park there and there are no hunters, they aren't afraid. Our greetings to all friends! 26.04 Within three days, on April 22,23,24 there was very bad weather: heavy snowing, a strong wind all day long. Bolotov's three-men group stayed at 7000 for these three days. Yesterday, having made unsuccessful (because of snowfall) attempt to climb upper, at about 12.00 the guys began descending and at about 17.00 they came to the base camp. It was uneasy, taking into account strong snowfall and avalanches. Judging by their eyes Bolotov, Borisov and Kirievsky did not at once understand, where they had appeared, then though they gradually got warm but only today in the morning they finally came round. On April 25, in the morning there is no snowing. It is high overcast and atmospheric pressure has a little increase. The hope for improvement of weather has appeared. Having waited till the bad weather was over Mikhailov's three-men group went to the camp at 6700 today in the morning and, there is a hope, that tomorrow they will get in the camp at 7000m. All our further plans and actions entirely depend on the weather.

23.04.2004: Russian expedition "Panasonic-JANNU North Face": bad weather The latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru): 23.04.2004 Hello friends! Today is April, 23. Yesterday Bolotov's group hanged up the portaledge at 7000. The guys had no time to set it correctly up to the bad weather beginning. It was strong snow-falling and a strong wind. The portaledge hangs far from satisfactory. All the night the guys struggled against the avalanches falling from the wall. They did not manage even to boil some water successfully. We were hoping the weather to get better since the morning, but it is snowing again. You can see the base camp under the snowfall in the photos. Can you imagine how everything looks in 2500 meters above? It is more reasonable to them to wait in the base camp till the bad weather is over, but it is a big problem to descend now because of avalanche collapses. We have continuous communication with Bolotov's group. And Mikhailov's group is staying in the camp at 5600 to help the guys if it is necessary. They, probably, will begin descent in one and a half of hour. We are going to wait for a good weather. Wish us good luck. 22.04.2004 There is only 700 meters of a vertical ahead! The day before (on April, 21 at 18:00) we hung out a red standard of proletariat, and on April, 22 "in commemoration of Lenin's Birthday (* Vladimir Ilyich Lenin, 1870-1924, Russian revolutionary, the founder of Bolshevism and the major force behind the Revolution of Oct., 1917) the three-men group led by Bolotov settled the camp at 7000m - a portaledge in the basis of the last stronghold of Jannu - the 700 meter plumb wall. Whether in the award or in punishment (we will find it out soon) the Lord sent a snowstorm to us. The guys struggle with a snow above. And we are trying to banish the bad weather with indignation and flags and trampling down 20 cm snow in the base camp. The snow hurricane accompanied with peals of thunder and continued for 6 hours. At 18:45, thank God, we had a radio communication with Mikhailov's group (their portable radio set all the day was out of order). Finally the snowfall stopped. The guys had a subbotnik (* In former USSA, voluntary unpaid work on days off, originally especially on Saturdays) at 5600 - they amicably and by turns were working on the route with the words "freedom of speech: friendly, in a fit of temper, recollect "ILYICH". And then having crossed they whispered (* When Lenin took over he forbid religion, destroyed all the churches, and murdered all the priests): "God bless all! This day will pass, well, and let it pass..." The guys sustained the weather onslaught. The technical equipment "Panasonic" too - in a continuous snow-falling videocameras worked as in pavilion of a film studio. On April, 7 we began to work on the route and in two weeks we reached 7000 m. For the time being everything goes under the plan. We are in a brave mood. The weather reminds that it can be different, but it did not frightened us. Read all news

19.04.2004: Panasonic-JANNU North Face: "...we reached 6800m..." "Big Wall- Russian Way" Panasonic - Jannu The latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru): 21.04.2004 Hi, our friends, now all the team are scattered over the mountain. The schedule of work and acclimatization goes in the right way. The plan of work is simple, but labour-consuming, and includes fixing the rope, lifting the cargoes for life-support at such altitude, acclimatization - spending the night as high as it is possible - and, at last, descent for the rest. Three groups, replacing each other, climb upward. Our group lifted a portaledge from 6100m up to 6700m, and having made three pitches upper descended to the base camp to have a rest. On 20.04 the two-men group Totmyanin and Odintsov lay the route. Now they are fixing the rope above 6800m. The group Bolotov - Borisov - Kirievsky is going to change them and fix the rope on the wall up to 7000 m. If everything goes in the right way, they will try to check up and fix the rope up to the line where we stopped last year. The two-men group Pershin - Prilepa makes cargo carry from 5600-6100 and up to 6700 m. According to the condition and state of their health Odintsov, Totmyanin, Pershin and Prilepa will descend into the camp at 5600 or into the base camp. Just now Nikolay Totmyanin has come to the base camp, the others are staying at 5600m. The weather simply indulges us today. All the day long the sun has been shining and it has not been snowing. The mountain towers in all glory, without any cloud. The fog usually coming from the valley below has receded today too. All our greetings to everybody. See you soon. Ruchkin and all the guys. 18.04.2004 Hi, friends! We are fine, safe and sound. I regret very much, that nobody with the exception writes and informs about our Jannu expedition going. Today we descended to the Base Camp. Pavlenko, Mikhailov and Ruhckin spent two nights at 6100m, being engaged in restoration of fixed ropes. Having reached up to 6700m we lifted there a portaledge with all equipment needed for a life. We spent the last night in a struggle against a thunder-storm, lightnings and snowfalling, all the night long we shook off a lot of snow from the portaledge lest it was not broken off. There is less snow on a wall than last autumn, and instead of a planned at 6500m cave, we lifted the portaledge from 6100m up to 6700m on the rock and made three pitches more. So then all things considered that we reached 6800m. But I think we will not manage to dig a cave at 7000m too. There was a heavy fall snow last night, al the ropes are covered in snow and we have to dig them. We are in the Base Camp now: the doctor is engaged in treatment of our coughs and sores. Yesterday he descended from 5600m for acclimatization. Everything takes its normal course. Descending we met the guys Totmyanin-Pershin-Prigoda ascending up to 6700m to change us and to continue fixing the rope. The group Bolotov - Borisov-Kirievsky ascended at 5600m to continue working from there. Waiting for the details and photos tomorrow. Ruchkin. Read all news

12.04.2004: "Big Wall- Russian Way" team: "We are having acclimatization consecutively ascending upper and upper" "Big Wall- Russian Way" Panasonic - Jannu Åhe latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru): 12.04.2004 Our greetings to everybody! Things are going well thus far, keep your fingers crossed! We are having acclimatization consecutively ascending upper and upper. 11.04.2004 We descended to the base camp to have a rest. Odintsov - Prilepa acclimatized at 5100m and climbed lifting the gear up to 5600 for the further acclimatization. The group Bolotov - Borisov - Kirievsky ascended 5600m, and the same day Pershin and Totmyanin went from 5600m and fixed 5 pitches more on the ice up to the altitude of 6000 meters. This is all the news for the present about our work on the route. 10.04.2004 We climbed a plateau, marked it with landmarks with tags for orientation in fog. There are some our trails from the last year expedition in places. The winter seems low-snowed or strong winds have blown all the snow: this year it is much less snow and the bergschrund became lower on about 40 meters. The scrap of the rope hung above the present bergschrund. As all the snow was blown away and frozen during the winter and the clear ice was opened: rigid winter ice in which hardly to set ice screws. The ropes particularly remained, but nobody dares to risk and to climb on them. We have to use tools for climbing and use a jumar belaying on last year's ropes. They, certainly, are torn, and we change them on the new ones. Our group ascended up to 5800 m, making 5 pitches and descended to 5600m to spend the second night at this altitude. 9.04.2004 We climbed up to 5600 and lifted some gear for the following work on the route. 8.04.2004 Our three-men team (Mikhailov-Pavlenko-Ruchkin) climbed 5100m and spent the night there. 7.04.2004 We began fixing the rope, the group Bolotov - Borisov -Kirievsky restored the fixed rope up to 5100m, settled the intermediate camp and stayed to spend the night there for acclimatization. Next day they descended to the base camp for the rest. The other members of our team did the full carry of the gear up to 5100m. Ruhckin. Read all news

05.04.2004: "Big Wall- Russian Way"- Panasonic- Jannu "Big Wall- Russian Way"- Panasonic - Jannu expedition: the latest news (translation by www.mountain.ru) 5.04.2004 The team has arrived in Base Camp. Odintsov is in Gunza. The satellite phone works. 30.03.2004 Odintsov called in with the latest from Panasonic-Jannu North Face expedition: Everything is settled with cargo, tommorow we will take flight to Tapledjung and on April, 4 we are going to be at Jannu Base Camp. 26.03.2004 Alexandre Odintsov reports: "We are in Katmandu now. Everything is OK excepting a "trifle" - a part of our cargo sended by Katar avia, fell into oblivion. Now we try to search it out and to find out what excactly we lose. Evidently the start of our expedition will be delaying. We don't despair of it counting on the local and on the all other Gods, and thinking that the situation will settle somehow..."

24.03.2004: The second expedition of Russian alpinists to the North Wall of Jeannou peak: the challenge is thrown down The alpinists use to call Jeannou peak (7710 meters), or Mystery Peak, Peak of Terror, the 38th highest point of our planet, the last unsolved problem of The Himalayas. At the altitude of 7000 meters Jeannou Big Wall (the big plumb wall) starts, which no one has been able to climb on until now. The exact number of expeditions to the Northern Wall is still unknown. Until Autumn of 2003 the maximum altitude climbed accounted for 6700 meters (1999, Uzbek team). In October 2003 a new record was set up by Russian alpinists, participants to the unique alpinist project “The Russian way – the walls of the world” under the guidance of Alexander Odintsov, international degree Master of Sports. For whole eight years now those sportsmen have been paving the exclusive “Russian Routes” along the most famous walls of the world. The route of climbing that is based on fragmentary data obtained from the previous expeditions had to be corrected at site: its first third is a constantly moving and changing its relief icefall. On the 12th of September Michail Michaylov - one of the expedition participants - was caught by the icefall. Later on the team’s leader Alexander Odintsov got a hand injury. Under severe frost conditions, without oxygen masks on, through avalanches, the five Russian alpinists have managed to climb up to an altitude of 7200 meters. There were only 510 meters left to the top. But the weather had got very bad, and it is absolutely useless to rival with the monsoon outbreak. The team took the only correct decision to close the expedition having the equipment preserved on the mountain so as to come back onto Jeannou in March next year. The alpinists do not consider their doubtless record to be the absolute victory they have been striving for. Only the completely laid “Russain” route could have satisfied them. The entry list of “Panasonic – Jeannou North wall – II” expedition has changed, and the sports potential of the team has been strengthened by three high-skilled alpinists. According to the preliminary Odintsov’s plans, the way up to the 7000 altitude mark should take no more than fourteen days. If so, the guys will have had enough strength reserved to climb onto the plumb Northern Wall. The way of 710 meters may also takes about two weeks. As it was in Autumn 2003, the general sponsor of the expedition has become Panasonic Corporation. The primary logistics provider of the expedition is traditionally represented by BASK Company that has been providing the team of “Russian walls – walls of the world” project with special equipment within four years already. The members of Odintsov’s team intend to fly to Katmandu on the 24th of March 2004. Starting from that day on, the attention of the world alpinist community will be keenly drawn to the region of the East Himalayas.