Jannu North Face Wall furiously resists
N.Totmyanin informs from BC (translation by www.mountain.ru): 5.05
Hello friends!
That last site that we have to climb reminds very much the American diretissima on Petit Dru or a combination of cruxes of Semiletkin, Popenko and Bezzubkin's routes on Svobodnaya (Free) Korea. We have to climb fixed ropes for three days up to 7000 m to continue the work on the wall. We have two entrance-gate camps at 5600 m and 6700 m, i.e. we spend the night in them and go further. The camp at 7000 m has the special status: we live in it. It should be maximum comfortable to have a rest and restore forces for working on extremely difficult surface.
Our group spent all the day to cut out in ice a 2õ2 meters platform under a tent for Efimov's group. I have been on "7-thousand" mountains for 35 times, but for the first time biwy organization at 7000m took so much time and forces. A half of the tent is cut in the slope and closed from above by 3õ4m awning and dust avalanches fly above, not causing harm. We have to climb via combined relief: 70-90-degrees rocks with ice spanked block and rocky cornices. For aid climbing we use universal rocky pitons of 2-5 mm, bent channels of 3 different sizes, stoppers, friends and camalots. Also we have unscrewed bolts for monolithic sites and sky hooks. Ice sites of the wall represent firm ice spanked blocks of thickness from meter up to several centimeters. We successfully use ice screws, ice tools and ice fifi on them. If to count the weight of clothes, footwear and crampons the leader has about 15 kg hanging on him.
Free climbing in "Millet" footwear, warm multilayered clothes and in gloves from Polartec is rather problematic. The rocks are dry, but cold. Temperature is negative 15-20. While the leader covered in sweat goes ahead, the belayer struggles with cold. There are 5 pitches from camp at 7000 m prior to the beginning of fixed ropes and we have to spend 4 hours to get there since the morning.
The immediate task of the advanced group is to fix even two more ropes and to hang up one more portaledge closer to the beginning of fixed ropes. Today Bolotov's group is ahead. Mikhailov's group and Àlexander Odintsov ascended at 5600 m. The advanced two-man team climbed 5 m of the cornice for this day and straightened the fixed ropes: it makes easier to ascend, haul gear and will save the time of ascent at least on one or one and a half of hour.
A bad consequence of our work at high altitude is constant cough. The doctor prescribes different treatment in the base camp, including inhalations with herbs. We have an electric inhaler, which effectively helps to struggle with respiratory illnesses. One more problem at such altitude is dehydration of organism. Morning and evening consumption of liquid is obviously not enough.
The advanced two-man team takes a thermos on the wall, but they can drink only on the top point of pitch, further the leader climbs upper and works as a navvy up to the end of the working day without drink. The basic drink is tea. " Princess Nuri " in bags is well made in "boiled water" at 7000 m. Other drinks are instant coffee, cocoa, juices and milk in different combinations. In the base camp we would like to drink a beer and fruit compotes. The wall furiously resists. But the team has a fighting spirit.
Our greetings to everybody!
P.S. Yesterday rather sad event happened. At a portaledge we had prepared to haul and hung at 7000 meters, was pulled out one of 4 points of fastening, and a strong wind broken the poles of a skeleton. The spare complete set of poles will be lifted by Mikhailov's group in 2 days. All this does not accelerate the ascent.
02.05.
The two-man team Bolotov-Borisov continued climbing the wall. They have made only one pitch for a day: our ascent goes slowly. And the reasons are obvious: high altitude (more than 7 000m) and a vertical wall with hanging sites.
Today there is good weather: sunny day, clean sky, but there is a strong wind and it is rather cold. The hanging on the sun socks washed in the morning, were frozen. Tomorrow M.Mikhailov and A.Odintsov's group leaves the base camp at 5600.
Our greetings to everybody and the best regards.
M.Bakin.
06.05.2004
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