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15.11.2002: Press-release of Valery Babanov’s solo-expedition to East Nuptse "Modern climbing may be conditionally subdivided into commercial, exotic and the ‘climbing of highest achievements’. The latter extends the frontiers of human abilities and the latter attracts me most of all. " Valery Babanov Press-release Of Valery Babanov’s solo-expedition to East Nuptse On the 15th of November company BASK held a press conference devoted to an expedition of a world-famous Russian climber, winner of ‘Piolet d’Or – 2002’, Valery Babanov to Himalayas. For the first time in history a Russian – the experienced master of solo-climbs – attempted to ascend a virgin summit Nuptse East (7804 m). The peak has been challenging climbers for the last 18 years and, in spite of numerous assaults of many expeditions, it still remains unclimbed. Valery Babanov was the first who dared for a single combat with a powerful mountain. A hardest route up the South Face of Nuptse had been climbing in extremely deteriorated weather. Above 6000 m altitude winds were blowing with a 25-40 m/s speed. Elevation change from a base to a summit is about 2600 m. `Devil’s tower’ turned to be one of the hardest segments of the route: about 250 meters of snow rocks with no opportunity for any protection. Nowadays Valery Babanov, who is also a guide of ENSA, is considered to be one of the best climbers of the world. He has climbed more than 70 of extremely difficult routes, while 30 of them were done in a solo style. Unequalled Babanov’s first climb of Meru Central in Garhwal Himalayas in 2001 had captured him two main alpinist rewards: ‘Piolet d’Or’ and ‘Genziana Glovane’. “Nuptse East” is the forth of Babanpv’s Himalayas expedition in which he chose BASK equipment. Besides an extreme climbing outfit BASK also provided Valery with a satellite phone that enabled on-line publications.

05.11.2002: Valeri Babanov: The hurricane winds and the end of permit stopped the expedition The report from Valeri BABANOV from Base Camp of Nuptse: 02.11.2002 The expedition is over. We have two serious reasons: constantly horrible weather with hurricane winds and the end of my permit. In 4 das we plan to be in Kathmandu and around 10th of November n Moscow. All the best formy friends! Valeri and Olga BABANOV

08.10.2002: I climbed the low rock pillar and reached the snow and ice. Now at 5 700 m The report has translated by the satellite phone provided by BASK. Hello everybody! Thanks for the weather forecast, we've got it. Several days the weather keeps good. Sunny days. Yesterday I come down to base camp, having the night at 5 700 meters. I climbed the low rock pillar and reached the snow and ice. I again was impressed by the grandiose Himalayan spaces: from the lower point the overall of pillar part looks like about 100 meters, but in reality it is about 400 meters! The height is storing from point to point. Now it is still 5 900 m. I have already AID worked and in the rock shoes - free climbing and swim in the snow... The state of the snow - the separate story. The South Face of Nuptse constantly in the sunny light, the a little bit melt snow almost doesn't held: no snow, no water, something... And when climbing, I always fell that in the next moment I can slide with the snow down. Today is the rest day. Tomorrow I go again up. I still have the rope store, so I fix it in the most difficult points. To come to fix rope is now out of sense "up-down, up-down", the distance is too large for it. So I will go up and several days work there. God only knows what weather would be in several days. That's all for now, Valera, Olga. 4.10.2002, 11:55

25.09.2002: We reached the Base Camp at September 19th. It situated at the altitude 5200 meters just before the South Face of Nuptse. Grandiose ground! Valeri BABANOV reports by the phone provided by BASK company: September 20th, 14:30 Hello everybody! Today is September 20th. Yesterday we reached the base camp. It situated at the altitude 5200 meters just before the South face of Nuptse. Grandiose ground! The weather today is pleasure for us. Now is 4 p.m. but the sun is still shining. Yesterday and the day before yesterday it was snowing. Today we feel much more better. Yesterday we have had a hard day: we left Thangboche (3860 m) and for 5 hours went up more the 1 km. Today is the rest day. I prepare the equipment to start fix my route. Cook and his assistant make our BC comfort. We are four here: Olga, myself, cook Pasang and his assistant Nuri. Our liaison officer promised to come as well. But till now he is somewhere in other place. No other expeditions around. As for the route now it is not in the best conditions - a lot of snow. Rocks are in the heavy snow, but I hope that during fixing the lower part the conditions will became better. I have got the detail forecast in the Everest region from American SMHI company. Thanks a lot! That's all for now, Valeri and Olga BABANOV

17.09.2002: Valeri BABANOV reports from Namche. No Khumbu acclimatising climb. Extra 4000 US $ changed plans of climber 16.09.2002 Hello! We are report from Namche. There is Internet here now. We are OK! The weather is unstable. Sometimes it's raining. In the valley and on the tracks are not many tourists. Maybe the season is not coming yet. In this season there are just four expedition to Everest, several expeditions to AmaDablan, and of course there are some trekking expeditions to Island peak. I think, it is impossible to realise my idea about acclimatising by going up to Khumbu Icefall and South Cool of Everest. In the Ministry of Tourism they said that I had to pay 4000$ for this action. So, I have to find another possibility for the acclimatisation. Tomorrow (17.09) we are going to Tiengboche. We will come to Base Camp Nuptse in Sept,19. So wait our call from Base Camp.

16.09.2002: First report from the Babanov's. Kathmandu. Meeting with Elisabeth Howly... 14.09 First report from the Babanov's. Kathmandu. Briefing is over; meeting with Elisabeth Howly... We are OK. And our fly traveling to Delhi and Kathmandu pass well. Yesterday,we had a briffing in the Ministry of Tourism Nepal. Tomorroy (Sept.15)we will fly to Lucla. And this evening we go to the restoran with two Ukraines piople (Terzeul and Vladimir). We mit with them in this morning. They are going to the Mt.Dhaulagiri in this automn. Also,In this morning I met with Miss Houlli in our hotel. We were glad to meet again in Kathmandy. We spoke about my expedition and climbing tactics on the South Face of Mt.Nuptse. She sad,that things like that could doing just Babanov and T.Humar. Valeri,Olga

16.09.2002: September 12th Valeri and Olga BABANOV flight to Delhi. Wish them a good luck! Expedition started September 12th Valeri and Olga BABANOV flight to Delhi. Wish them a good luck! Expedition started.

13.09.2002: High aspiration climbing: face to Face with a mountain ‘All I’ve done before is just a prelude to this climb’ (Valery Babanov, leaving to Nuptse) Valery Babanov is one of the leading climbers, world-famous with his extremely difficult solo climbs. On the 11th of September he leaves to a new Himalayas expedition. This time he is going to climb a virgin summit Nuptse East, 7804 m. Climbers from all the world have been trying to summit the peak during 18 years, but none could ascend it. Valery is the first who dared to challenge the mountain in a solo style, choosing the hardest route. It is the fourth great expedition, where Valery is equipped by BASK company. Besides a clothing outfit and a special BASK tent, the company has also provided Valery Babanov with a satellite phone to establish connection with ‘the Continent’. Unequalled Babanov’s first climb of Meru Central in Garhwal Himalayas in 2001 had captured him two main alpinist rewards: ‘Piolet d’Or’ and ‘Genziana Glovane’. Now Himalayas, the favorite Valery’s mountains, are calling him back again. Exclusive interview with Valery Babanov Conducted by Larisa Martynkina, BASK LM (Larisa Martynkina, BASK): Valery, how do you grade this expedition? Were you preparing long to the climb? VB (Valery Babanov): You know, all I’ve done before is juat a prelude to this climb. It is the hardest route I’ve ever seen: all pitches are crucial! Virgin Nuptse East has been challenging me for last three years. I've been dreaming about it and considering possible routes to the summit. The height of Nuptse East was measured by a satellite as none has ever stood on its apex. My route goes up the South Face of Nuptse massif, following the Southeast rib. Elevation change from a base camp to the summit is about 2500 m. 1500-meter lowest segment is very hard: it’s a mixed rock and ice climbing there. After it there is a steep rib with overhanging snow cornices. The final part is a mixed steep terrain again: snowed rocks and ice. These, last, 300 metres to the summit were never surpassed by a human. LM: What is the highest altitude reached by climbers at Nuptse East slopes? VB: 7500 m — by Michael Fauquet and Jean-Christophe Moulin. They reached it in autumn of 1994. LM: You’ve spent a lot of time in Chamonix. Why could you not make inquiries at the French, what have stopped them? VB: Of course, I know Michael and Jean-Christophe. They, as most climbers, were stopped with hurricanes that can’t be overcome. Summit ridge is the segment that is most exposed to winds. The nearer you are to the summit, the more you are frustrated with terrible north winds that blow from Tibet with 180 km/h speed. Atrocious winds and frost doubled with high altitude are the main obstacles on a way to the summit. LM: And how are you going to cope with them? VB: I hope to catch a weather ‘window’. I’ll wait for a gleam of weather and start to the summit. October is the best month for climbing in the region, but even in that period it may be storming for a week with a perfect silent weather for the next 1-2 days. What concerns the terrible frost above 7000, I rely upon down BASK garments that succored me in previous Himalayas expeditions. LM: What is your forecast concerning the terms of the climb? VB: I plan to spend 5-8 days (including a descent) after ‘landing off’. It will be like a marathon if I am lucky with weather. Most part of the Face should be climbed in minimalist alpine style with a minimum of food, gear, gas stove, down sleeping bag and the lightest tent designed by BASK especially for me. LM: Once you said that Himalayas are your favorite mountains. ‘Nuptse’ is your sixth Himalayas expedition, isn’t it? VB: Yes, and the forth organized by myself. First time I faced Himalayas at Lhotse in 1997. That time we met a disaster: Volodya Bashkirov was killed during a descent. The next year we tried to traverse Lhotse massif and to summit Lhotse Middle. It was my second Himalayas expedition and the last one with a team. LM: It’s well known that none has ever dared to climb Nuptse alone. When and why did you decide to climb hardest routes in a solo style? VB: When you are alone, you acquire a new vision of mountains. At the same time, I take all the decisions myself, I estimate a possible danger and I am completely responsible for all my actions. It is important for me. I had been climbing for 12 years before I made my first solo climb of Free Korea at Tyan-Shan. It happened at year 1993 and to that moment I had climbed more than a hundred of routes in a team. But, it seems, the time came to change something. Now I myself choose a style and a pace; I decided when to start and when to finish, and none but me is effected with sequels of my actions. Soloist is a priory in extreme conditions. Of course, margins of safety of climbing team are much higher. That’s why I am permanently working over my safety and try to minimize risks. Total self-control, reliable gear, reliable ropes from BEAL – these are my safety regulations. LM: Valery, what brought you to climbing? Lucky chance, childhood dream or what it was? VB: I really wished to be nearer to sky since my childhood. I was keen on astronomy for many years and after a school I entered Omsk Aviation Technical College. My speciality was ‘assembling of aircrafts’. I’ve gone into climbing at ages of 14 and in two years I started mountaineering. Now I am 37 and not so long ago I graduated ENSA – French Climbing Guide School. I plan to work as a guide in Chamonix. This way I may maintain my family and still do what I love most of all. But I am not going to terminate my extreme and sport climbs. I’m sure I’ve still of benefit for climbing and my potential is not exhausted yet. From my point of view, modern climbing may be conventionally separated in three branches: commercial, exotic and a ‘climbing of superb achievements’. The latter extends the frontiers of human abilities and I hope I still have something to do with it.