Press-release of Valery Babanov’s solo-expedition to East Nuptse

"Modern climbing may be conditionally subdivided into commercial, exotic and the ‘climbing of highest achievements’. The latter extends the frontiers of human abilities and the latter attracts me most of all. "

Valery Babanov

Press-release
Of Valery Babanov’s solo-expedition to East Nuptse

On the 15th of November company BASK held a press conference devoted to an expedition of a world-famous Russian climber, winner of ‘Piolet d’Or – 2002’, Valery Babanov to Himalayas.

For the first time in history a Russian – the experienced master of solo-climbs – attempted to ascend a virgin summit Nuptse East (7804 m). The peak has been challenging climbers for the last 18 years and, in spite of numerous assaults of many expeditions, it still remains unclimbed.

Valery Babanov was the first who dared for a single combat with a powerful mountain. A hardest route up the South Face of Nuptse had been climbing in extremely deteriorated weather. Above 6000 m altitude winds were blowing with a 25-40 m/s speed. Elevation change from a base to a summit is about 2600 m. `Devil’s tower’ turned to be one of the hardest segments of the route: about 250 meters of snow rocks with no opportunity for any protection.

Nowadays Valery Babanov, who is also a guide of ENSA, is considered to be one of the best climbers of the world. He has climbed more than 70 of extremely difficult routes, while 30 of them were done in a solo style.

Unequalled Babanov’s first climb of Meru Central in Garhwal Himalayas in 2001 had captured him two main alpinist rewards: ‘Piolet d’Or’ and ‘Genziana Glovane’.

“Nuptse East” is the forth of Babanpv’s Himalayas expedition in which he chose BASK equipment. Besides an extreme climbing outfit BASK also provided Valery with a satellite phone that enabled on-line publications.

15.11.2002