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17.06.2003: Valery Babanov and Vladimir Suviga about an expedition to Nuptse East Valery Babanov and Vladimir Suviga   Virgin east summit of Nuptse (7804 m, Himalayas) attracts attention of best climbers with a supernatural power. There were many expeditions of leading mountaineers during last 17 years, but their failures have only been exciting next candidates to pioneers. Among those was one Russian – Valery Babanov, an owner of `Piolet d’Or – 2002’. This year it was his second attempt to climb the mountain. First one was a solo attempt and this time – in a duo with Valery Suviga. This jubilee season the Himalayas met numerous expeditions of `conquerors’ with an offensive defense. Weather here has never been stable, but this season even Everest old-timers were surprised with abnormal storms that lasted till the end of May. Thus on the last spring day Babanov and Suviga returned to Russia leaving in Himalayas an unclimbed beauty Nuptse East – the highest of virgin summits. For month and a half our climbers had been processing a hardest route up South-East ridge. They had fixed more than 1 kilometer of ropes, climbed a crux of the route and pitched they highest camp. They needed one weather window, but – there were no windows for them for a month. They tried to break through heavy snowfalls, but all in vain. A permit was expiring. Cherished summit was so near: an apex was only 350 meters higher – just two days of climbing! But – as it uses to happen – when the team was at 7450, a heavy snowfall, which was alternating only with a storm wind, stopped climbers. Valery Babanov (VB): We did all we could and even more. South-East ridge was climed and only weather terminated our final push to the summit. On the 22nd of May we descended to our base camp. The route was prepared. We were acclimatized; we recovered and were 100% ready for a final bid. We needed nothing but weather. LM: How many bids did you make? VB: For two months that we spent at Nuptse there were no more than five (sic!) really clear days that were ideal for a final push. In spite of uncertain weather we have attempted the summit four times (after we had completed processing the route). The last bid we made on the 19th of May when we had only one day till the end of a permit term. The last but unsuccessful – LM: Truly speaking, we were very anxious about you when there was no news from you for a week. It was in early May – during your final attempt. How long had you been above 7000? What about your bivies there? VB: Making use of a temporarily snapback of weather on the 5th of May we (once again) started upwards. First two days we spent in our advanced camp at 6700 meters, next five days we were above 7000. Three of them were used for an ascend and two for a descent. After it we need a pair of days to renew our strength in a base camp.. Vladimir Suviga (VS): We wished to reach summit for 4-5 days (to date from a base camp). Really we spent 17 hours to reach 6700 meters. We started on midnights to climb as much as we could till the `regular’ morning snowfall. At 6500 m a part of fixed ropes was cut with a broken serac, so we spent some time to repair them. VB: It was exactly a snowfall that forced us to turn back when (on the 9th of May) we reached 7450 meters and there were no more than two days to the summit. ‘Twas such a heavy snowfall that it took two days to downclimb to a base camp. Our next bivy was in a bergschrund at 7100. We spent that night in a light tent designed by BASK especially for our expedition. LM: Had your route (its conditions, grade) changed since your previous expedition? Had you fix any ropes above an advanced camp or did you choose an alpine style instead? VB: When we returned to the South Face of Nuptse in March, I was puzzled with what I saw. At first glance I didn’t recognize the ridge – all its two kilometers were gray and absolutely dry. In autumn everything was covered with snow, which was blown down with stormy wind, while in spring we saw bare rocks. Though, general technical grade did not change: some segments became easier, some became harder. Some former iced segments required free climbing this time. A crux, so called `devil’s tower’ (6200 - 6400 m) may be characterized as ED (extremely difficult) or 6A (French grade). Above 6500 we followed alpine style: no preliminary processing of a route, two Beal ropes (Cobra rope for belaying) and light and durable cevlar Dyneema for rappelling. VS: During two months of the expedition we had about 30 climb-outs and it seems I could climb our route blindfold now. I remember a climb of a similar grade: it was the West Face of Dhaulagiri. Hard and overhanging rocks above 6000 meters. We used allclimbing techincs and all climbing gear. No (even moral) rest on this mountain, no spot where you may stop climb and may just scramble a little. The only segment that we could pass without alternating belaying was at 6900 m. It was 80 meters long and it was exactly the place where Hans Kammerlander pitched his camp. LM: I know you were competing with an Italian team of Hans Kammerlander. I’m afraid it resulted in some tensions between you – two candidates to firstclimb the summit. What about it? VB: On the contrary, we were on the best terms with Hans himself and with his team. It was Nuptse East that made us friends. The only problems in communications were related with a language barrier. When (on the 26th of April) Kammerlander’s expeditions approached Mt. Nuptse and pitched a camp in 300 meters from us we were ready for a final push to summit. Keeping in mind it and that all the route along the ridge was processed with us already, Kammerlander found it more ethic to choose another way. It was a route up a gully – it is easier, but of higher avalanche danger. LM: In Kammerlander reports it is written much about a serious avalanche danger. Once an avalanche rushed down their gully in a few moments on their leaving it. It had demoralized one experienced member of Kammerlander’s ream. Had anything of the kind occurred with you? VB: While Italyan team was climbing up a gully where we saw real snow rivers, our ridge was relatively safe as it was out of an avalanche zone. In spite of its difficultness it’s a unique eye-filling, logic and safe way to the summit. Nevertheless above 6900 our routes coincided – further way crossed vast ice and snow fields were huge masses of snow had been accumulating. The slope was 50-700 steep and each snowfall resulted in avalanches. One of them caught us on our return from a final push. It went straight over me. Large field of snow unexpectedly moved out and, gathering speed, covered me and went further. Fortunately, the snow stake that I fixed for self-belay stood the stroke. It happened at 7100 on the 10th of May. LM: In spite of the fact that Nuptse East is still unclimbed, your expedition can not be considered unsuccessful. For the first time Russians reached 7450 altitude, repeating the best result of a French expedition of 1994. VS: First of all, we had climbed a crux. Secondly, we all are safe and sound. Thirdly, we are a second team that reached 7450 m (for the last 178 years none but French could do it). It’s not our fault that a permit had expired before weather changed. Much depends on luck here. LM: When you were leaving the mountain there was expected a window in weather. Why did such a strong climber as Kammerlander not use that opportunity? Obviously, on your retreat he had good chances to become a pioneer. VS: I think he just did not make his mind for an exhaustive struggle for the summit. Probably they were disappointed with their first failure. To that moment they saw themselves real dangers and real hardness of the route. VB: I was surprised when Hans told me that they planned only 3-4 weeks for their expedition. It’s not serious for Nuptse. Besides, they were accompanied with a large camera-team. I’m afraid that an idea `at least to make a film even if we don’t summit the peak’ could relax the climbing team. On 6900 meter altitude, not long after our descent, they decided to terminate their expedition. Really, I got to know that Nuptse is the highest virgin summit from Hans (to be exact, from his advertisements). LM: I know that famous Reinhold Messner had visited Kammerlander’s camp at Nuptse base. Had he visited you? What did he say concerning your route? VB: We met on the 18th of May. Messner came there to visit his friend Hans and dropped in our camp. I immediately recognized though I didn’t knew him personally before. In spite of his 59 years he looked nice and was in good trim. Very qualified, well-informed about all events in our climbing world, he appreciated our route high and found our style (in a duo) optimal for this summit. Really success was very near. LM: Valera, are you ready to return and to try the summit once again? VB: Sure, I wish to return there this autumn. I’m absolutely positive that Nuptse East may be climbed in a duo. It would be pity to reject our project now, when so much is done already. South-West edge of Nuptse is the hardest and the most attractive route of those I’ve ever climbed. Extreme climbing at extreme height. It is extreme alpinism – the sport I’m so fond of. ——————————————————————————————————— Valery Babanov and Vladimir Suviga were interviewed by Larisa Martynkina, company BASK.

22.05.2003: News from Valery Babanov Babanov and Suviga. Nuptse Base camp.   At last Valera called us from a base Nuptse camp again. But the news was dull: the expedition is over and climbers are leaving back to Moscow. No summit. Causes are bad weather and permit terms (it lasts only till the 20th of May). On the 18th of May Babanov and Suviga tried the summit once again but a snowfall stopped them. Fine weather that is so expected by all Himalayan expeditions now, has not come yet. Old-timers point to exceptionally bad weather this season. According to Valera’s reports there were no more than 5 days with satisfactory weather this year. In spite of it Babanov and Suviga has reached the maximal (so far) altitude that was gained by French expedition of 1995. To the moment that 7500 meters is the best what people could reach on the mountain. Summit itself is still the highest of unclimbed summits. During the expedition Reinhold Messner visited Nuptse base camp. Babanov says that famous German 59-years climber is still in good trim. Kammerlander’s team is trying to first-climb Nuptse East too. On their second break-out they could hardly reach their previous 6900 m bivy. Shredded tent forced them to go back. Now the team is waiting a hurricane out in a base camp.

19.05.2003: News from Valery Babanov Valery Babanov’s messages were delivered with the satellite phone provided by BASK – General Sponsor of the expedition: Good day, friends! Today is the 14th of May. Yesterday we descended from South Face of Nuptse where we spent five days. It was a push to the summit but we had not reached the top. Descent itself took two days. On the day of final summit bid we were terminated with weather. At that moment we were at 7450 m and only 400 meters were left up to an apex. We descended under permanent snowfall with avalanche accompaniment. We were lucky enough to save ourselves in a bergshrund, where we made a bivy. On the 11th of May we were able to continue our return and at 6900 m we saw two tents of Kammerlander’s team that was preparing for an assault too (now they are waiting a storm through in the base camp). At 8 p.m. of the very day we were at our base camp; absolutely exhausted but happy to be safe. Now our genial cook Pasang is feeding us after multi-days fastening. Today evening we hope to go down to Chukung village (4700 m) and spend a night there to recover completely. Tomorrow we’ll be back to our base camp and in a pair of day we plan to attempt the summit once again. All for today. Valera, Volodya, Nuptse East base camp, 14th of May, 2003.

13.05.2003: Valery Babanov and Vladimir Suviga reached 7450 m altitude and returned back to Nuptse base camp for some rest. V. Babanov and H. Kammerlander. Nuptse-2003   At last Valera called us! We've been worrying much as no news was heard since the 4th of May. Here is a chronicle of events: - Valera and Volodya left for an assault on the night of May 4/5; - They descended late in the evening of May, 11; - On the 10th of May they reached 7450 m altitude. An apex was just 400 meters higher. (Editorial note: So far maximal altutitude of 7500 m was reached by French expedition in 1995); - Babanov informed us that the route is hard; mixed terrain of ice and rocks; - Above 7000 the route had been climbed in nasty weather (wind and snow); - It was very cold - below -350C ; - Progress was low due to insufficient altitude acclimatization; - A tent, designed by BASK especially for the expedition, stood the hurricanes of April, 30 - May, 3 and is safe now; - Kammerlander team has pitched two tents at 6900 m for the period and is now having a rest. - Kammerlander's route met Babanov's one at 6900 m and coincides with it higher. Kammerlander photos from Nuptse base camp may be found here: (www.hr-online.de) Valery Babanov said that the next attempt is planned for the 15th of May. Now they are exhausted and need at least three days to recover. Detailed info is to appear tomorrow (13.05). Babanov met with Hans Kammerlander, who told him that so far Nuptse East (7804 m) is considered to be the highest unclimbed mountain. Who will be a pioneer we'll see soon.

05.05.2003: News from Nepal. Babanov and Suviga are taking off. Kammerlander chose his own way. Bivy at 6700 m. The tent is at the point where an edge turns to the right (at the end of snow cover)   Dull weather in Nepal. Meteorologists forecast storm from Afghanistan on the first of May. Snowfall is over but wind is increasing up to 50 m/s at 8000 m. Last two days (April 29, 30) Valery has been calling us often. For about half an hour I was dictating them weather forecast for next several days. They are interested in expected temperature, wind and humidity at different altitudes. On receiving the information Valera and Volodya start analyzing it and make their plans. They need to choose the best time for final bid and they are left no margin for error. Assault of Nuptse East has been delayed since the 26th of May. They need four or five days of normal weather. At least it seems so - none has tested this mountain above 7500 m yet... April, 29: " We had to postpone the start again. It`s snowing. According to your metcast we are to take off next night. We`ll try to. Shan`t be back till the 5th of May. Tell our guys that we have barbarized here and are eager to meet them, to speak with them - But let them visit Everest base camp firstly as we won`t be back before May, 7. Regards, Valera." We also got some messages from our support team that is approaching a base camp now. The team is permanently informing our climbers about weather on their route. Here are some of their letters: "Hi, Volodya! We are in Namche Bazar at 3400 m today. It`s the second day of our trek. Truly speaking, we are shocked with all we`ve seen in Katmandu during these 1.5 days. We`ve visited all we could: local showplaces, historical centre of the town, favorite climbing restaurant "Lapu" and "Annapurna" casino (fortunately, our paymaster didn`t take part in this entertainment). Transport (except of airlines) strike on the 28th of April didn`t prevent us from reaching Lukla and walking to Monjo (2850). Our "expedition" is safe and sound, we are cheerfully trumping up the route. Tomorrow we should visit Tengboche monastery. Send our regards to all who worry about us. Larisa, April 29." "Regards! We are in Namche already. Today we had an outing to 3900 m. Weather is abominable. Heavy rain since dinner had transformed into snow in the evening. I think Valery has not started yet. Yesterday it was raining too. Though we like all we see around. I`ve got letters concerning Valery. We met many Russians in a plane as well as in Katmandu. All for today, Sergey. April, 29." April, 30: Valery said: "We decided to wait. Snowfall. Meteorologists promise low humidity till the 7th of May. Hope us to be in time." Kammerlander found it more ethical to choose another route. He with his team will try Marko Prezeli`s last year route. It`s to the left of Valery`s line. Their route is easier. Yesterday they started processing a route (up to 5500-5600 meters what makes a 300-400 meters progress). Today Kammerlander is waiting snowfall through. We don`t communicate much as we live in a 300-meters distance. Their team is strong - each of five climbers may work first on the route. They`ll work in turns. Valery is sending his kindest regards to all friends! April, 26: Greetings to all! Our numbers have grown: Hans Kammerlander`s team accompanied by 50 porters appeared at South Face base today. They arrived at 9am. There were only 5 Europeans, including a cameraman. Three more Germans participate, but they seem to make a TV-group and they are still at Everest base camp. They`ll come here in several days. So it`s a kind of a joint Italian-German expedition leaded by Kammerlander. Four more Nepali takes part in the expedition: a cook, his assistant and two altitude porters. It makes nine new people near our camp so we`ll have no more a tedious time. Though, truly speaking, we never had such. Our push-off is planned for tomorrow. If - if the weather is fine. Final bid should take several days. Hans Kammerlander is not certain yet which route to choose. Probably, it will be our route. Though adjoining route, to the left of our one (the very route which was tried by American-Canadian-Slovenian expedition last year) is possible too. They have the same goal as we - East Nuptse, a virgin summit of the range. Their team includes four strong athletes, all of whom have 8+ experience. They still have not acclimatized, but I think they`ll do it during first stages of their ascent. They also are going to fix ropes to some altitude. That`s all I got from our conversations. There seems to be an on-line coverage of the expedition, cameramen and TV-specialists are here or approaching us. So info about Hans Kammerlander`s expedition should be in Internet already. Concerning our plans: if the weather if fine we`ll start this night (as we have to ascend, following our fix ropes, to 6000 m firstly). Next bivy should be at 6700 m and after it we`ll be climbing above. That`s all for today. We`ll keep silence for several next days. Regards to our friends! Bye. April, 27: "Hi, Volodya. Today is the 27th and we are here yet. Hope to push-off tomorrow. Volodya, please, tell our friends - they are coming here to visit us - that we may still be on the mountain on 2-3rd of May. It will be pity to miss them, so could they come here on the 4th, or, better, on the 7th of May?" (Editorial note: Support team of four persons started to Himalayas on the 25th of April. They should visit a base camp of the expedition.) It`s Ok with us; there just was no weather so we had to postpone our start. Hope us to leave this night. It should take four or five days. We aim at summit. Regards to all. April, 28: Valery Babanov was acquainted with a weekly forecast. He said it`s snowing at them. They still made no decision if they are starting to-night. Editorial note: metcast (we receive it from http:// www.risk.ru that gets it at SMHI and AdventureWeather.com) says that a front of the cyclone centered in Pakistan is at Everest now. It suggests low winds and snowfall next week. Since Wednesday humidity will be decreasing due to Afghan winds. They forecast increasing of wind speed up to 30-45 m/s with cease of precipitations. Babanov was mostly interesting with humidity at different altitudes. It seems that precipitations present the main trouble for their progress. In previous expeditions it was wind that hindered climbing. It`s usual to call wind a "storm" when it`s above 17 m/s and to call it a "hurricane" when it`s above 32 m/s. V. Babanov`s message was sent and delivered via a satellite phone provided by company BASK - General Sponsor of the expedition. Attribution to BASK is required when quoting.

24.04.2003: BABANOV - SUVIGA: "Hungry, tired but quit happy, they are in base camp now" Hi! We've just now back to base camp after 5 days work up there. Hungry, tired but quit happy we are here after 4 bivi at 6200 and 6700 meters height and acclimatization climb up to 6850m. Next several days we have rest. We feel good, everything is OK. All the best for all and big thanks! Valera and Vladimir BC, Nuptse, April 22nd, 2003 Translation:www.risk.ru

16.04.2003: Babanov and Suviga climbed the most difficult part of Tower Valery Babanov’s messages were delivered with the satellite phone provided by BASK – General Sponsor of the expedition: Hello! Today, April 14th, we are almost a month here. And all this time we have't come down to any village. All our life is spinning around the Mountain and base camp. Yesterday we have come down. The weather was bad all 2 days we've been up there. But we were able to climb up almost till 6 400 m. We climbed the most difficult part of Tower, including pitches with A3-A4 grade. Rocks are still ahead but not much. And all teh time we've been uo there, every day the weather sterted became worse closer to 11-12 a.m. Çà âñ¸ âðåìÿ íàøåé ðàáîòû íàâåðõó ê 11- 12 And as you can imagine, at 6000 meters during the bad weather it is not very simple to work. All the night today it's snowing in base camp. 10-15 sm of snow and during the day time is doesn't melt. And even now the clouds on the sky, but we do not dare, we have rest today. That's all for now, Valery and Vladimir April 14th, 2003.

10.04.2003: News from "East Nuptse - 2003" expedition Valery Babanov’s messages were delivered with the satellite phone provided by BASK – General Sponsor of the expedition: 9.04.2003: Hi! Last evening, after three days of hard work, we reached 6250 m altitude. I’ve climbed 60 meters up the tower. Climbing is arduous, artificial climbing is inevitable. Exactly here, before this 200 meters tower that is considered a crux of the route, I had to terminate my previous attempt. We dropped our tent at the tower base at 6000 m. Now everything is ready to pass it and to reach snow ridge. We’ll try to do it tomorrow. We heard rumors that numerous teams attempting Everst from Nepal are in a base camp already. Well, here we have no problems with throng – there are no else except of us. It’s a good tradition to make major achievements with no fuss :-) 4.04.2003: Greetings to all! We reached 6150 m altitude and approached `gates’ (as I called it last autumn). These are two monstrous cliffs that form a kind of bottle-neck. `Tower’, a crux of the route, is near. The route conditions are rather troublesome now. Those segments that were covered with verglas last time, now are hidden with deep snow, what reduces our speed. In spite of such obstacles we continue our upward progress. Valera and Volodya, Nuptse base camp Everest forecast - From SMHI and AdventureWeather.com By ExplorersWeb

31.03.2003: Valery Babanov (Nuptse East): " Yesterday we have crossed a mark of 6000 m" Valery Babanov (Nuptse East): "All greetings! Yesterday we have crossed a mark of 6000 m, slowly, but obstinately we advance upward. The weather, to be exact, none of weather, prevents us to gather speed as follows on a route . Usually it starts snowing at 11-12 a.m., and yet there was no day of snowless day. Yesterday Valentine Bozhukov has visited us. Today, early in the morning, he has left us and has continued his way to Everest base camp. Our next push is planned for tomorrow, with spending the night whether or not - will depend on weather. Thanks for forecast, though, it would not be a bad thing for it to be much better. In the rest all is OK, we both are healthy, and mood is good". Valera, Volodia Base Camp, Nuptse Source BASK, Translation: www.Mountain.RU

25.03.2003: Valery Babanov (Nuptse East): "Hello! On March, 23 we have a rest day" The weather is not fine, usually at the afternoon a steady snowfall settles in. We could reach 5800 meters, right to the point, where I spent night my previous attempt. Every day Nuptse wall and its south ridge is getting whiter. Even at the base camp it's cold enough. Early spring or late winter? Yesterday, on March, 22 I took over 40-meter difficult rock pitch wearing my rock shoes at 5800m, and in 20 minutes large sheets of snow came crashing down the face above. In fact, the route seems much different from the previous year. Last fall the rock became frozen in place in a thick sheet of ice. This year, though, it's pure rock. It concerns especially crux pitch upper 6000m. Though, it's not exactly promising weather, tomorrow we are about to leave the Base Camp for free days climbing bivying on the route.Every inch that we now jumare up or climb up from BC towards the high point we've already reached has been gained by countless hours of work. Valera, Volodia Base Camp, Nuptse Source BASK, Translation: www.Mountain.RU

21.03.2003: Valery Babanov (Nuptse East): "Hi! As expected, the way from Lukla took us five days The weather was unsettled when we arrived. On March, 16 we went up to 5200m where the Base Camp was installed. The following two days the weather was superb, so we climbed up to 5750m. Our line has another look, now it’s 2000m iceless and snowless rock ridge. After our “warm” climb we both needed a rest day. We had a douche in the tent. Our cook named Pasang baked an apple pie. I don’t know why, but while blessing lama recommended us not to set up prayer flags before March 20. The same day we’ll go on our climbing. Valera, Volodia"

17.03.2003: Valery Babanov is on his way to Nuptse again. This time he is no more alone Nuptse East, 7804 m, is the one of the five Nuptse summits that has rebutted 10 attempts of strongest world climbing teams to conquer it. In spite of extraordinary efforts of the climbers none could reach the apex during last 17 years. Our compatriot Valery Babanov is the only climber who dared for a single combat with the mountain. Last autumn Valery tried a solo climb up the hardest route but this attempt was smashed with heavy snowfalls and hurricanes above 6300 m. It made the final push to a summit impossible. `Devil’s tower’ was left unclimbed. Now, half a year later, an honored climber and a winner of `Piolet d’Or–2002’, Valery Babanov made his mind for a next attempt to tame the shrew. But this time he’ll be not alone – an experienced climber from Alma-Ata, Vladimir Suviga, will join Valery. LM: Valery, your October attempt to climb Nuptse failed. Why are you going to the same summit again? VB: When one looks at a photo of South-East edge of Nuptse East he sees that it is the clearest, most logical route up the summit. It’s also the hardest route of those I have ever climbed – each segment is crucial! I know that many climbing `stars’ have designs on this mountain. Not long before my return to Moscow I sent letters to central climbing magazines with one question: `are you interesting in my reports from Nuptse’? One and all said `yes’ while an editor of Japan ` Rock&Snow ‘ shocked me with his reply: `All our best climbers are dreaming of this route!’ I know that a French team is thinking of climbing Nuptse in 2004 too. Of course, our climbing society is always attending East Nuptse problem, but there are some things that are beyond power of a single person. These are solo climbs of 4-5 km Himalayan routes with extremely difficult climbing above 6 km. That was the problem I faced during the last expedition. LM: D’you guess that this expedition will ruin your enigmatic solo-image? VB: Well, I’ve never tried to create this image. Not a bit. When I made my first solo climb in 1993 my horizons were broaden. It happened unexpectedly for me. I always was surrounded with friends who could be nice partners, but I went deeply into solo climbing, which fascinated me. After several hard climbs sponsors found me and I started contacting media that has created this image. I am not going to abandon solo climbs. My main aim for today is to climb hardest high-altitude wall routes. If such routes happen to be insuperable solo, I’ll climb in a duo. LM: Is this expedition your first non-solo climb during the last 9 years? VB: ‘Course, no! I climbed a lot of nice and interesting routes with a team. For example, in May 1997 I participated in Bashkirov’s expedition to Lhotse and in February 1998 we with Yura Koshelenko broke a new line `Lena’ (ED) up Pti-Dru, which was devoted to our lost friend Helen Okylova. Last winter we with Jean-Christophe Lafaille were climbing in a duo in Alps. For both of us it was a kind of training before high mountains. LM: Why did you choose exactly Volodya Suviga as your partner? VB: I know Volodya as a professional climber for more than 10 years. He is elder than I and very experienced. He has climbed South-East Face of Communism peak (1980), Kangchenjunga (1989), Dhaulagiri (1991), Everest (1992,1997) and Manaslu (1995) what includes highest points of almost all the continents (only Mt. Vinson and Puncak Jaya still have to make up this list) and a great number of other hard and interesting mountains. I’m sure that he is an ideal partner for this high altitude climb. An alloy of our mutual experience and skills completed with our will to win should conquest a victory. VS: When Valery returned from Nepal in November and, on considering all aspects, proposed me to join him, I agreed with no hesitations. It’s an honor for me. Our Alma-Ata team was the first one in ex-USSR who started treating climbing as a professional sport, but not as a romantic adventure. As a guide and an instructor of Alma-Ata Army Sports Center I am to master my skills permanently. That’s why each week (since November) I had been climbing one of summits in our Zailiy Alatau Range (or just ascending above 4 km). Several weeks ago I raised Kazakhstan flag above West summit of Elbrus. I am not pretending to be a leader in this expedition. Nuptse – is a dream of Valery. It’s his idea and his mountain. We’ll go in a duo, but my number is the second. LM: Which style is chosen for this climb? VS: I, as an altitude climber, prefer siege tactic. Probably, we’ll process a lowest part of the route in this style, and the rest – in rapid alpine style. VB: Alpine style suggests minimal weight, no fixed ropes and high speed. That is how the leading athletes are climbing. Our equipment was designed by BASK especially for alpine climbing. For this expedition I got a personal outfit from BASK and a storm suit (in my favorite colors). BASK has also designed a special very light portaledge tent for us and an enlighten backpacks for a final summit bid (obviously, we’ll take only the essentials – sleeping-bag, rope, tent, stove, snack and a minimum of personal effects). LM: What are the terms of the expedition? VB: We fly away on the 8th of March while we have a permit till the end of May. Though I hope to complete the ascent earlier. As usual, much depends on the `presents’ prepared for us by weather. Final push to a summit may take, depending on weather, from four to twelve days. I’ve consulted with experienced high altitude climbers and studied logs of our Soviet expeditions to Everest and Kangchenjunga. These expeditions started rather early – in first weeks of March. I think that if I start the expedition two or three weeks earlier `traditional’ dates I’ll increase my chances to find the route in a good condition. Winter hurricanes cleared extra snow from the ridge while next snowfalls are expected only April. What will they be like is unknown to anyone, except only meteorologists. I hope to get regular updated forecasts via a satellite BASK phone just as I did last time. The same way I’ll be sending reports about our expedition progress. South-East edge of Nuptse East is still a problem of modern climbing, but nevertheless it’s the clearest, most logical, and the only safe way to the summit. In spite of its extreme difficultness I’m absolutely certain that it may be climbed by a small team. I hope it will be our duo. Valery Babanov (VB) and Vladimir Suviga (VS) were interviewed by Larisa Martynkina (LM), BASK.