Mt. Amin Brakk (5850m), West face, Russian Extreme Project expeditions

The Mountain Amin Brakk (5850m) is situated in inaccessible Pakistan Mountains that present real climbing Mecca. It is one of the most complex and extended walls of our planet. It is harder then Trango Tower. Amin Brakk was first attempted in May 1996 by the Basque climbers and got attraction of rock climber back in 1997. The very experienced Spanish big wall climber, Jon Lazkano, together with Adolfo Madinabeitia and Jose Carlos Tamayo made a capsule style attempt on the 1,200m granite face of unclimbed Amin Brakk. After 15 days on the wall the trio were forced to give up around 300m below the top, worn down by bad weather, cold temperatures that caused minor frosting, and lack of food. They estimated another three to four days of good climbable weather would be needed in order to reach the summit.

Spanish made several attempts until 1999 Pep Masip, Miguel Puigdomenech and Silvia Vidal climbed this virgin Tower and named their route as Sol Solet (VII 6C+, A5). The ascent took 34 days. The route has a technically complex part of 1650m in length and 22 pitch A5 and 6c+ (vertical!) and is considered as the most technically complex wall in the world for the present moment. Extent of sites À5-graded (the greatest possible category of complexity) makes 150 meters (!) at the altitude about 6000 m. Lack of snow on this very abrupt wall causes additional complexities, and the climbers have to haul up water.

The Russians have never tried to climb this formidable mountain. Moreover nobody has jumped from its top and realised similar projects! The team is going to lead and develop the new extreme sports of "B.A.S.E.-climbing". You will be able to follow the expedition reading on-line reportings (news, photos).

Translation by www.mountain.ru

17.06.2004