Amin Brakk wall : "the bottom part starts to be badly fired after afternoon by ice and stones crashing down.

Alexander Lastochkin

Valery Rozov’s messages were delivered with the satellite phone provided by BASK:

1.07.04
We continue fixing the bottom part of the wall. Weather has become settled and began to remind almost summertime, at least in the afternoon. Yesterday we made two pitches, but today could do only one. Steepness of the bottom part of the wall is about 70 degrees. But the rocks are ice-covered, and their structure reminds "mutton foreheads", that means it is required a tension insecure mixed climbing on poorly adhered ice with hard-won rock gear for protection.

One more unpleasant surprise we have got - the bottom part starts to be badly fired after afternoon by ice and stones crashing down. Yesterday a small avalanche covered working tree-man team: Lastochkin, Kovalev and Dorfman. All of them are safe and sound, but it scared them stiff! Avalanches collapse from the roof and a bend place, where the wall is vertically directed downwards, avalanches seems to jump out in the air, and this wave of snow flies, actually not touching the wall, directly on you. At least, from below it is difficult to estimate either it get right away on you or pass by. And it happens in such way some times a day. We even named these small avalanches - "White dragon". In 1-2 pitches the wall becomes vertical or even a little hanging, and we hope, that bombardment will go past. But for now our work on the wall becomes very dangerous after afternoon, and we have to stop fixing the wall and descend.
The nearest two days we plan to continue fixing the rope and lead the route, and also to haul gear and some food upwards.
Our greetings to everybody!

Translation by www.mountain.ru

01.07.2004