The REP-team have summited Amin Brakk; Rozov successfuly base jumped from 5550 m
22.07.04
Congratulations to Arkady Seregin, Alexander Lastochkin, Serguey Kovaljov and Valery Rozov - they've summited Amin Brakk July, 19. Valery Rozov successfuly base jumped from the wall from 5550 m - July, 21.
16.07.04
Yesterday we worked the first day after taking off and made two pitches, including a series of cornices with maximal broad side about seven meters. Most likely it is a crux of the route. The very bad weather holds. It is constantly snowing and the present forecast promises only weather's deterioration. We have got again the broken generator below in the base camp. Dmitry Lifanov's trying to do something with it and sent one of the sherpas for spares, but he will return only in two - three days. Today on July 14 the team with its full complement works on the wall. All of us are safe and sound and almost healthy. All our greetings to you!
12.07.04
After short rest in the base camp our team finally took off the foot of the mountain and now all the participants of the expedition spend the night on three portaledges, fixed on a vertical wall. Weather constantly varies. Snow and fog prevail, therefore visibility is bad and snow fills microrelief, that makes further climbing very difficult.
13.07.2004 We lead the route via "Czech crack". We will see where to head further. Some variants are possible.
11.07.04
Just last time we wrote about the good weather but in the same evening it deteriorated. Last two days on July 9 and 10 it was practically continuously raining, sometime sleetting, and it became rather cold. It became practically impossible to work on the route because of continuous snow streams along the wall. Nevertheless working above two-man team Lastochkin-Kovalev and Seregin-Lifanov-Dorfman, that climbed from below, tried to make anything to haul gear to the upper pitches.
On July 9 a strong rockfall collapsed right along the route line and the fixed rope was broken in several places. We spent half of the next day to restore it and then descended having become wet and cold. Today on July 11 we at last gathered all together in the base camp again. We decided to have a rest and to take off tomorrow. The forecast seems to promise the weather to improve a bit.
Rozov feels better though he is not completely recovered yet. But we have no time to sit below. We've got more than 800 meters of the vertical wall ahead. For today we made 12 pitches (the top site is in the photo). Five of us are going to make a summit push (Rozov, Seregin, Kovalev, Lastochkin, Dorfman), Dmitry Lifanov will stay below for communication and for shooting a B.A.S.E.-jump.
We wish to embrace and kiss all intimates and our beloved and send them our greetings!
8.07.04
Man proposes and God disposes. Our planned taking off for today failed. Rozov fell ill and got a sore throat and high temperature. Probably he should descend to the base camp.
A two-man team Lastochkin-Kovalev works above. For two days they managed to make one pitch on a very poor relief. The cracks that look not bad appear deaf and do not help to climb on the practically smooth wall. Tomorrow Seregin-Lifanov leave upward. We will continue to fix the rope using all available ropes. The further plans depend on condition of the participants. We hope that the delay will be short. Weather is adjusted again.
Translation by www.mountain.ru 22.07.2004
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