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On the 13th of July experience Novosibirsk high-altitude climber Gleb Sokolov started for Pobeda peak. He plans to accomplish a speed traverse of all the three summits of the ridge.
‘Pobeda is much more difficult than most of 7000-ers, including Lenin and Korjeneva peaks. Mountaineering there is no less extreme than the same in Central Himalayas. Even at Mt. Everest there are more windows in storm than at Pobeda peak. Snowfalls are to often there and even in clear days avalanche danger is high and one needs to wait till snow is compressed,’ said Gleb Sokolov when he was visiting BASK office. He knows the malign character of the peak by his own experience as since 1992 till 1995 he had climbed the main Pobeda summit thrice.
Such a climb itself is an exploit, while a traverse of all summits in the ridge is a most severe trial. Gleb Sokolov has tried to do it twice: in 1998 and 1999, but both times his plans were broken with foul weather: high wind and slopes filled with waist-deep snow stopped him.
The more obstacles Gleb was meeting on his way, the more thoroughly he was preparing to the third assault. Such a traverse requires the best acclimatization and to attain it Gleb went to Himalayas and climbed Island Peak.
To be safely protected from Arctic frost peculiar to Pobeda, the best clothing is required. That’s why Gleb has chosen BASK company and its extreme-line garments: down jacket ‘Ertzog’, salopettes and gloves, warm underwear and ‘Climber Bag’ sleeping bag.
For his speed traverse Gleb has planned a new route: starting from Dikiy (Wild) pass (5300 m) he is going to cross West (6928 m), Main (7439) and East (7039) summits.
A team of Novosibirsk climbers will be trying this traverse in the opposite direction simultaneously with Gleb Sokolov, what provides proper level of safety. ‘We’ll greet each other somewhere between the Main Summit and Armenia Peak and each will follow his own way afterwards’.
Gleb keeps his photo camera close at hand during all his travels. Even on hardest 8000-metres routes he had it attached to a pack to make a good shot in good time. Hope this time Gleb win and our site will be decorated with some of his new photos.
21.08.2002
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